Paracord Spool Adapter for The Yarn Spooler

Paracord Spool Adapter for The Yarn Spooler

prusaprinters

<p>I needed a winder for my Paracord Spools: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831426">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831426</a></p><p>After a search, I found I liked jonmessenger's Yarn Winder (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2863263">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2863263</a>) the best, but it wouldn't fit on my print bed.<br>A couple good remixes were already done by Funkton (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3954918">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3954918</a>) and alxjmrk (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4560727">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4560727</a>), so I used these as a strong basis.</p><p>I used the same driveshaft interface, but modified the shaft itself to be a 5/16in x 18 threaded hex-head bolt, as the Paracord Spools I had made previously have a 12mm center hole, and a 3D-printed threaded rod less than 12mm in diameter promised to be entirely too weak for this application.</p><p>I ran into a problem after some hours of printing alxjmrk's split uprights: the horizontal layers of the PLA hooks at the top were so weak they just fell off when snapping the spool holder into place. The solution was to do a quick and dirty remix by cutting the frame apart further, printing the hooks separately and laying flat on the print bed (in effect, making the layers run vertically relative to the upright hooks after mounting). I also made a version removing a lot of the base's material to save filament, as I will not be using the screw holes to mount it to the workbench. Both versions are provided.</p><p>The major downside to this approach is that it now requires two M5 bolts and nuts to hold the frame together. For this reason, if your printer can handle one of the original frames I remixed from, you might be better off using one of those instead, and just printing my adapters. The hooks at the top of the frame are the same dimensions, so the driveshaft is cross-compatible.</p><h3>Print Settings</h3><p><strong>Rafts: </strong>No</p><p><strong>Supports: </strong>Yes</p><p><strong>Resolution: </strong>200</p><p><strong>Infill: &nbsp;</strong>20</p><p><strong>Filament: </strong>PLA<br>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Notes:&nbsp;</strong></p><p>Additional materials needed:</p><ul><li>5 inch-long 5/16x18 SAE (12.7cm) threaded hex-head bolt (thread size doesn't matter as long as they're less than 12mm diameter).</li><li>5/16x18 nut x1 (optionally x2, if you really want one for the End Piece)</li><li>5/16x18 wing nut</li><li>Fender washer</li><li>M5 30mm bolt x2 and nut x2</li></ul><p>Print two of the hooks lying flat on your print bed for optimum strength, consider 20-25% infill (increase it if they come out weak on your printer).</p><p>Print two of the frame halves (choose either the cutout version or the unmodified screw hole base), 15% infill is probably fine</p><p>Print one each of jonmessenger's Yarn Spooler Crank and Handle (unmodified, included here for convenience)</p><p>Print one "Adapter for Paracord Spool Crank" upright with support for the rim, 20% infill</p><p>Print one "Adapter for Paracord Spool End" 20% infill. This has a hex cutout if you want to insert a nut, but it is not necessary.</p><p>Consider also printing the excellent Drill Adapter by Funkton (included here unmodified, full credit to him, duplicated here only for convenience)</p>

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