Palice Mechanical Keyboard+

thingiverse

Yes I know my keyboard looks awful These models were revised to better accommodate a fully 3D printed build and hand soldering, though it should still work with existing plates and PCBs. After attempting to make the Palice Keyboard by Synyster1911, I was pretty displeased by some errors in the model, which involved remodeling some of the parts. The Original Palice Keyboard also did not involve any bill of materials or recommendations for putting it together, this remix will include some instructions if you haven't done anything like this before (like myself). Updates to the original Palice Keyboard include: + Plates for Plate Mounted Stabilizers + New Anchor points for plates (previous ones were too flimsy) + Fixing holes to better accommodate the M3 threaded inserts in the covers + General fixes to the plates (Caps Lock cut-out is bad on original) + General Build guide and print settings + Included an additional mount for a female USB C port which replaces the nut and washer for the foot mount: [AliExpress Link](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000903027628.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtWP59T) + Lower angle with smaller feet brings down the angle of the keyboard from 6 degrees to 3 degrees Bill of Materials: + M3 Threaded Inserts (5 mm long) x (24 or 16 depending on how sturdy you want your plate) + (M3 x 5 mm) x (16 or 8 depending on how sturdy you want your plate) + (M3 x 8 mm) x (6 only if you are using the "low feet") + (M3 x 12 mm) x (8 or 14 if you are using the regular feet) + M3 Nuts x 6 + M3 Washers x 6 + Switches x 64 + Keycaps: Requires a 2.25u and 2.75u spacebar, otherwise uses standard keys. I personally bought this set on AliExpress which came with everything: [AliExpress Link](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001472239361.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4a784c4dKp1eWE) I bought most of this off AliExpress, for a decent price, especially the fasteners and inserts. Get extra if you can, I had a few inserts with bad tolerances or just broke. TEST EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU INSTALL, I learned this the hard way, even the screws and threaded inserts, just make sure they screw together easily. When installing the inserts make sure to change the tip of your soldering iron to one that doesn't go through the insert. If the soldering iron melts the plastic at the bottom of the hole, it can flow up into the insert and gum up the threads. If you've had plastic get into the threads, I found that partly screwing in a screw and heating it with the soldering iron, while tightening, can force the plastic out of the threads. You do need to be careful as overheating the screw can heat up the insert again and cause it to torque out while tightening. If there's enough space between the screw and the insert threads the plastic may get in between, letting the plastic solidify and taking out the screw, sometimes removed the plastic in the threads. When printing the plates (if you are using the 3D printed plates) make sure that your bed is level, high or low spots can affect the tolerance for switches, so they may be too snug or too loose. Currently the holes for the switches are 0.2 mm oversized, which I found worked best for fitment.