OpenRC F1 direct steering system

thingiverse

Power is nothing without control. Daniel Noree has done a great job in making the OpenRC F1-Car, but some changes can make the car much better. One of the bigger problems is the steering system of the car, and the 3D-printed servosaver may work or may not - mine doesn't really work. I will drive fast, and I will drive the car safe, and now I have reworked the steering-system completely. It has much better precision, it works quicker, and maybe it's a bit lighter. If you want to build this version, you have some options. My car has the front suspension from rhoagland, which is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1455120. We need a new upper and lower BOM for the front axle, both parts are included. Also include modified upper and lower BOMs for the normal version from Barspin, which is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309. I also shortened the front BOM block to make it possible to use other screws. Some things we need to buy - the important thing was a servosaver that can be mounted directly on the servo. I use spare parts from Tamiya, which is number 300115065 for the DT-01/07/DF-03 P-Te. This servosaver fits fine on a TowerPro MG90s servo. Next, I bought a set of ball joints from eBay - my version is "M3". This is strong and you can also use 2.5mm or 2mm versions! To make the connections from servosaver to the wheel hubs, I needed some M3 threaded rods. If you use smaller ball joints, you need smaller rods too. I included the *.blend file so you can change things if you want - all parts are on separate layers. Included are cutted wheel hubs for normal and suspension versions, a shortener front BOM part (if you need it), upper and lower front BOM parts for suspension and normal versions, servoholder for a servo like TowerPro MG90s (Sg90 should also fit in), and a front chassis plate with new holes to mount the servo at the new position and orientation. If you don't want to use ball-joint-connections, you have to modify the original connectors between wheel hubs and servosaver - they must be shortened and twisted 90 degrees. For best performance, I recommend using ball-joint-connectors. All parts can be printed without support and in resolution and infill, you want. Most I have printed in 0.1mm layer, the chassis has 0.2mm. Infill between 70 (servosaver, BOM block, chassis) and 90% (other parts). Important: I have the "old" version of the car - I don't know if all the parts fit on the 2017 version (the chassis not, I think). If you have an 2017 version, you can change anything in the blend-file. Simply load the original part in and look at the modified parts to see what changes to make. Later, I will build an 2017 version of the car - then I will make parts for this.