Omniadrop Anycubic Mega mount

thingiverse

This adapter plate allows fitment of the Omniadrop extruder to the Anycubic i3 Mega, reusing as many original parts as possible and avoiding fiddling with end stops or similar issues. I haven't catered for a filament guide, spool holder, z probe, or loom mount at the extruder. This print is just to get the extruder on and printing! First things first is the hardware you're going to require to fit this: - 2 x 20mm M4 bolts plus fixings to mount the extruder to the adapter plate. The adapter plate mounts to the printer using the screws holding the metal carriage to the bearings. - 2 x 10-20mm M3 bolts plus fixings for the new x carriage cable holder we'll soon print as the original extruder assembly is poorly designed. If you don't have the above hardware or a second 3D printer, don't proceed. Second, you'll want to print out the following x carriage belt mount alongside the adapter plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3868324 The original x belt will fit (see pics). Once you have the above hardware and prints in hand, the fun can begin. Start by removing the x belt and disassembling the bowden extruder. Cut every tie wrap you can see. Attach the printed adapter plate to the metal mount then follow that by bolting up the printed x belt mount. I've drawn the adapter plate so you can use either cap or dome-shaped fan mounts. You may notice how the part cooling fan sticks out quite aggressively and that sliding the extruder all the way to the right has one of the fan mounts come in contact with the lip of the frame. For the sake of collision during mesh leveling, cut the mount hole so it's flush with the fan. If you attempt to mesh level without updating bed offsets, you'll notice the hot end is in space. Also, if you print anything in the center of the bed, it will be off. A small tweak of the firmware to add in our new offsets is required. If you happen to be using TCM silent drivers with the cabling for them not reversed, bless up as that's what I have. I've included the hex you need to install which will take care of the offsets. Just to err on the side of caution, have your finger on the power button just in case the printer doesn't home as expected. DO NOT USE THE HEX IF YOUR SETUP IS USING STOCK DRIVERS AND/OR NON-INVERTED MOTOR CABLING. Also, if you're thinking of using M206 to adjust bed offset, trust me, don't. For you boys with a different setup, it's a trip into the firmware for some quick and easy changes. Download the Arduino IDE and follow this guide: https://kore.cc/i3mega/download/marlin-ai3m_english.pdf When you download the Marlin firmware, HAVE to extract the folder before using Arduino IDE to open it. Once you're in, browse to the configuration.h tab. I've included a screen grab of the settings you need to change. Follow the guide to install. It's easiest to use Cura in my opinion. Once your offsets are in, you'll want to move your hot bed so it's around 16.5mm at each corner. This time when you select mesh leveling, the hot end will move to where it typically does. Complete the mesh level. If your bed is way lower than 16.5mm, you'll crush the end stops whilst leveling. Thats you done! Do the other usual things like heat and tighten the nozzle etc. You lose about 15mm of print surface from the right-hand side of the hot bed due to the extruder design. Make sure to account for this in your slicer. A few other things. Excuse the quality of the prints pictured, they were rough speed drafts used in fleshing out the design. Remember to change your slicer settings to suit a direct drive. No more than 2mm retraction is told is the way to go. Half your bowden retraction speed. Also, the mount looks a bit wonky in one of the pics. I can assure you it's just an illusion. Finally, I don't want any donations for this. I've taken far more out the printing community than I'll ever give back. Donate to keep Thingiverse going if anything. It's a great site.