Oil lamp LED conversion

thingiverse

Hello, this is for retrofitting an oil lamp (paraffin or kerosene lamp) with a sleek LED ring to create a beautiful light without burning anything. STL, STEP, Fusion-Files and Arduino-Code are included. However, it's likely that the design won't fit your specific lamp perfectly. Please check and adjust accordingly. The electronic components used include: * DigiSpark Microcontroller Board (compatible with Arduino IDE) * 2x 18650 Li-Ion batteries * LED-ring with 12 LEDs (neopixel WS2812 compatible) * Step-Up converter MT3608 (to increase the ~3-4V from the batteries to 5V for the LEDs and DigiSpark) * Charging board for the batteries TP4056 (please ensure you have [the same](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32710028268.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.583c4c4d8Kxvwm), as there are several with different sizes available) Please refer to the STP/Fusion file for assembly instructions. The parts on top should be glued in place, and please double-check that you use the correct order of assembly so that the boards remain inside. The top cutout is slightly too small to push the converter through later. The DigiSpark is positioned in a way that makes it relatively easy to remove and reprogram for changing colors or adding a timer. Due to how the DigiSpark works, the light will turn on about 5 seconds after turning on the switch (it's waiting for USB input in case of reprogramming). Contact with the batteries is made using wire wound through the provided holes. The two batteries should be connected in parallel, with plus to the top and minus to the bottom due to the geometry of the parts. *Please ensure that both batteries have the same voltage before connecting them in parallel!* Otherwise, one will charge the other with very high current, which can damage them or cause them to get very hot! This design would also work with one battery only; I added two to increase runtime. Press the bottom round contact parts into the holes and then use the snap-on part to hold them in place. You'll need to cut a small slot where the two circles meet, so they can be pushed together by the snap-on part. *Please make sure that both batteries are in contact with the contacts at all times!* If for some reason one is not in contact, you won't notice because the other will still provide enough voltage. However, if later one battery is empty and the other is full and the contact works again, there's once more the risk of charging one battery from the other with very high current. Wire the switch between the charging board and the converter board. I made a hole in the top part of the lamp for the switch. Be extremely careful when drilling the hole in the sheet metal; it will likely bend a lot (it did for me). Starting with a small drill should help, or perhaps pressing the hole or using pliers might work better. The LED ring is simply glued into place. The hole assembly is inserted from below into the empty tube of the lamp. You'll need to move the glass part out of the way for this. The assembly is only held in the lamp by friction, so please double-check that your lamp has the same inner diameter. The 3D models of the two PCBs are from GrabCad, thanks to the authors. Printed with PLA, 0.2mm layer height. No supports were needed!