Ocie's 21-Cup Filament Silos
thingiverse
UPDATE 28-Jan-2019: I missed uploading the STL for the Lack Bowden underlay. Sorry about that!! Added to files now. UPDATE 16-Oct-2018: For my desktop printer at work, I modified the "21cup_base" part to remove the feed cone and screws, and to shrink the footprint from 200mm to 150mm. This part is called "tabeletop_base". I often print PETG and sometimes Nylon, and I wanted to have relatively airtight containers that I can print from within. I have a shelf above my printer where I like to place my filament. I mentioned to my buddy Jason Foss that I had been looking for an airtight cereal container that didn't have the inset notches on the sides that interfered with a spool. He told me about the Rubbermaid 21 cup container and it was perfect. I searched Thingiverse and found several things using this container. I tried out a few of them and none of them fit my needs exactly, so I decided to design my own. There are the things that inspired my design: Filament Spool SyStem by Jimbo70 (this was my main inspiration and is fantastic) Custimizable TUSH bracket (sized for Rubbermaid 21 cup filament storage) by x0pherl TUSH2 - Sliding TUSH parts by me (inspired by the above designs) The design I came up with consists of a "base" that attaches to the lid of the Rubbermaid container, and two TUSH parts that slide onto rails on the base. The TUSH parts have rollers that contact the spool of filament, allowing it to feed through the assembly. Here's how to assemble the parts: 1. Print the following: * one "21-cup_base.STL" * two "TUSH2-Outside_tweaked.STL" * two "TUSH2-Inside_tweaked.STL" * one of the underlay parts of your choice: + "21cup underlay_std.STL" + "21cup underlay_bowden.STL" + "21cup underlay_flat.STL" + "21cup underlay_lack.STL" + "21cup underlay_lack_bowden.STL" 2. Hold the "base" to the lid of the Rubbermaid container, with the lid facing upwards on the shelf. 3. Turn the lid over and use the "base" as a guide to mark the 5 locations where you will need to make holes in the lid for the 4 screws and the filament. 4. Drill the 5 holes in the Lid. The holes can also be made with an xacto blade, they do not need to look pretty, as they will be hidden. 5. Drill a hole in your shelf or Lack table for the exit tube of the chosen "underlay" to pass through. See attached dimension drawing for external diameters of the various underlay versions. 6. If you are using one of the Bowden versions of the underlay, trim the input end of your PTFE tube as shown in the attached dimension drawing. Screw the Bowden coupler onto the Underlay tube. The diameter of the tube is such that the coupling can form its own threads without cracking the tube. 7. Place the "underlay" on the bottom side of the Lid and place on the shelf or Lack table with the exit tube of the underlay passing through the drilled hole. 8. Attach the whole assembly to the shelf or Lack table using 4 screws (#8 or M3). The "base" self-aligns to the Lid and the screws will align the "underlay" to the "base". 9. Assemble the TUSH parts and slide them onto the rails of the "base". 10. Adjust the width of the TUSH rollers and place your spool of filament on the assembly, with the filament exiting the spool over the top, so it can feed relatively straight down through the input side of the "base". As always, STEP and native Solidworks CAD assemblies are attached as well as the STLs. Thanks!
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