NVG power supply box

thingiverse

## Annotation Power supply to replace Russian NVG "PNV-57E" PSU. As a replacement PSU, I used some Chinese high-voltage converter and a couple of AAA batteries connected in parallel. Unfortunately, ABS is not enough insulation for the 20 kVolts supplied. Use at your own risk. Printing in PETG with an added layer of conductive material inside (connected to output ground) might help. Filling insides with some insulation compound (paraffin, for example) could also be beneficial. ## Construction The design consists of six parts - three for the box and three for the switch. ### Box The lower part (Case.stl) has a compartment for a high-voltage converter, a place to put battery block (Battery.stl), and two side holes for wires. There are also mounting brackets for straps to attach it to a helmet. The lid (Lid.stl) is attached by six M3x12 DIN912 screws. ### Switch The complete switch assembly consists of the switch case (Frame.stl), knob (Knob.stl), and switching shaft (Shaft.stl) with a small neodymium magnet glued into the rectangular slot in the base. You will also need a spring that you will put on the shaft prior to inserting it into the switch case. The knob is then glued onto the shaft, which locks onto two pins on the case. The spring pushes the switching shaft down (so the knob locks), and you must pull the knob up to rotate it 180 degrees. You should find an appropriate spring by yourself, as I haven't written the measurements. After that, the whole switch is glued into the depression in the PSU lid. The last thing you need is a reed contact to put under the lid. I've glued some small reed contact along with a copper strip with superglue. The latter is used as a contact for AAA batteries. See images on https://scrooge.space/2019/10/%D0%BF%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F-%D0%BF%D0%BD%D0%B2-57%D0%B5/. # RUSSIAN VERSION ## Annotation Corpse of the power supply unit to replace PSU PNV-57E. As a replacement, I used some Chinese high-voltage converter and a couple of AAA batteries connected in parallel. Unfortunately, ABS is not enough insulation for 20 kVolts supplied. Use at your own risk. Printing in PETG with an added layer of conductive material inside (connected to output ground) might help. Filling insides with some insulation compound (paraffin, for example) could also be beneficial. ## Construction The design consists of six parts - three for the box and three for the switch. ### Box The lower part (Case.stl) has a compartment for a high-voltage converter, a place to put battery block (Battery.stl), and two side holes for wires. There are also mounting brackets for straps to attach it to a helmet. The lid (Lid.stl) is attached by six M3x12 DIN912 screws. ### Switch The complete switch assembly consists of the switch case (Frame.stl), knob (Knob.stl), and switching shaft (Shaft.stl) with a small neodymium magnet glued into the rectangular slot in the base. You will also need a spring that you will put on the shaft prior to inserting it into the switch case. The knob is then glued onto the shaft, which locks onto two pins on the case. The spring pushes the switching shaft down (so the knob locks), and you must pull the knob up to rotate it 180 degrees. You should find an appropriate spring by yourself, as I haven't written the measurements. After that, the whole switch is glued into the depression in the PSU lid. The last thing you need is a reed contact to put under the lid. I've glued some small reed contact along with a copper strip with superglue. The latter is used as a contact for AAA batteries. See images on https://scrooge.space/2019/10/%D0%BF%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F-%D0%BF%D0%BD%D0%B2-57%D0%B5/.