Nosecone Electronics Bay

thingiverse

I am working on two Aerotech rocket kits, a Mustang and an Arreaux, both with 1.9" diameter tubes. I need to add electronics to these models, but the Mustang is short and doesn't have much space for extra parts. So, I decided to design around it first. The nosecones of these models are made of plastic and hollow inside, which makes them perfect for adding something. The holes on these kits are designed specifically for mounting the Raven altimeter version 1. To print these models, you'll need an Ultimaker printer with a resolution of at least 0.2mm. You can choose to print with or without rafts and supports. For infill, I recommend using a setting of 35% or higher. The STL file is one part, but it can be divided into three parts if you want. After printing the models, you'll need to cut away some plastic on the nosecone shoulder. You can refer to the pictures for guidance. You'll also need a 6-7" piece of 1/4" rod with threads on both ends and two nuts. I used plain aluminum rod and tapped a 1/4-20 thread on each end, one 3/4" long and the other 1.5" long. Once you've printed the models, you'll need to assemble them. The front disk is the round but flat piece that will be glued inside the nosecone. It fits snugly in the shoulder section but moves easily once it's past that point. There is a slight bevel on this piece, and the smaller end should go in first. To add the rod with threads and nut, I recommend using the rod to push through the shoulder section and find the sweet spot for the front disk to rest. Be careful not to push the disk in too hard, as it will deform the nose. Once you've found the right spot, mark the back of the rod with the end of the shoulder. You'll also need to notch the end of the shoulder to fit the rod down into. There's no need to secure this part, as the rear hood piece should interlock with the nosecone and hold the assembly tight. Now that the parts are test fitted, it's time to add some glue to make the front disk solid with the nosecone. I added tape on the front side of the front disk to stop any epoxy from dripping through. Mix up some 5-minute or 12-minute epoxy (about 7-10 ml) and pour it into the nosecone, making sure the pour is onto the section where the front disk will sit. Don't worry if the epoxy drips further into the nosecone – we'll invert the cone and the epoxy will run back to the disk face and sides. When inserting the front disk, I found it helpful to have the carrier piece attached to make sure the alignment is lined up with the rear shoulder part. The STL file doesn't include mounting plate features such as wire strain relief holes or a battery mount. You can add these yourself if you want, but for now, just drill through where required. The SCAD file has been uploaded if you'd like to mess around and add some features or adjust it to other nosecones.