Nintendo Switch dock Front Panel Retrofit whit Logo/Remix

thingiverse

This amazing creation is brought to you by amazingyen, who has cleverly remixed it with a cool new Logo. Text by amazingyen This innovative project takes the factory switch dock and gives it a sleek replacement front panel that's shorter in height. Its primary goal is to provide a fresh look for the dock, make docking easier (by reducing required vertical clearance), as well as minimize potential scratching of the screen when docking/undocking. But let's be honest, it's also just plain fun! Please take some time to read through all the notes; I've tried to document every nuance and potential issue with this print. It doesn't require any modification of the original dock whatsoever. The dock needs to be disassembled, but is reassembled with the original hardware, and without the need for cutting/drilling/etc. However, because I modeled it with 4 screw posts instead of the original 6, it results in having 2 leftover screws. But don't worry, this doesn't seem to affect its structural integrity. It doesn't alter the behavior of the dock at all. It's a purely cosmetic change. When your switch is docked, it will still output to TV and you won't be able to turn on the built-in screen until you undock. This is not to be confused with a charging dock. NOTES: RightSide.stl, LeftSideNoLED.stl, LeftSide.stl If printed with decent precision, these files should fit together with minimal sanding. However, every 3D printer has its own quirks and nuances, so you may still need to alter the files or the prints themselves to get the right fit. CombinedSides.stl If your printer's workbed is large enough, I recommend printing it as one solid piece. Screw Posts I've spoken to a few people who've tried to print this out, and they said screw posts are prone to shearing. Make sure you're getting good layer adhesion with your printer settings. Using a 1/16" drill bit to ensure the hole is the right size (just hand turn the drill bit in the hole) would help. Slowly threading the hole with one of the screws by screwing it in 1-2mm at a time, backing the screw out, and repeating until the screw is fully threaded also could help. Another solution would be to enlarge the outer diameter of the screw post. Or do both! Once the hole is threaded however, there really isn't any problem. It's just the initial threading of the hole that puts the most amount of stress on it. SwitchDockRetrofit_Source.123dx I included the source file so people would have an easier time adapting the faceplate to their 3D printers. SwitchDockRetrofit_Source_NoBridges.123dx Another source file where I removed all bridges, which also seems to fit ok so long as the screws are secure. Enjoy!