Nikon D500 Full Cage

thingiverse

Nikon D500 Full Cage Required for cage: 4 x M3 screws 1 x ¼” Screw(for camera) Required for rig accessories: ¼” UNC nuts (up to 9) Required for the handle: 4 x M6 nuts 2 x M6 15 mm threaded rod -OR- 2 x M6 nuts 2 x M6 10 mm bolts Other: Thin sheet rubber for the base (camera grip) PRINTING: PTEG or ABS recommended for strength but I used PLA and it’s fine. Layer height: 0.15 mm Infill: 15% Supports needed for the base under the middle and on the base and top to support the end pegs for best results. ORIENTATION: Base: print with the shallow recess up. Top: print with the cold shoe plates up. Sides: print with the strengthening brackets up. Handle: print with the knurled tube pointing up. Hot shoe lock: print with the wide flat end down. POST PRINTING: Base and top: you may need to sand the undersides of the tabs for a smooth fit into the side pieces. Handle: ream out the holes if the bridging isn’t smooth enough. Top: you may need to sand the inside walls of the hot shoe lock opening . ASSEMBLY: See illustration. I used 3 mm x 20mm screws from a scrap box to attach the sides. 3M bolts should work fine as might plain 3 mm steel bars as long as the sides are epoxied to the base and top pieces. Don’t glue the hot shoe lock in place – it’s intended that the camera is slid into this first then adjusted down until the camera base can be secured with a ¼” UNC screw from below. Cut some thin rubber sheet and superglue it to the shallow recess on the base piece to avoid camera spin. I used pieces of bicycle inner tubing. NOTES: remember that this cage is plastic and won’t take the level of abuse of a metal cage. Don’t expect the cold shoes to support too much weight (I’ve used the cage with a Rode mic and 5 ½” monitor (and battery) and it’s been fine). I accept no responsibility for damage to equipment or person – you use this cage at your own risk. Any comments are welcome. Regards, Paul