Neustruder Direct Drive For Wanhao i3/Makerselect/Prusa i3, Ect.

thingiverse

Here's a Direct Drive Version of the Neustruder: Its Goals Remain the Same - Provide Affordable, Accessible Extrusion for Most Filaments. This Project Remains a Work in Progress and Is Subject to Change to Improve Performance. V1.5 Has Been Released! I Apologize for the Long Wait Since My Last Update. During That Time, I Conducted Extensive Testing, Eliminating the Small PTFE Tube for Plug-and-Play Printing without Any Issues. Materials Printed at 260C Work Seamlessly! This Extruder Was Designed as a Drop-in Replacement for Extruders Using the Mk8-10 Designs. It Can Be Printed from Any Typical Plastic and Has Been Successfully Tested with PLA, Even Without a Fan or Heatsink Attached. It Should Work on Most Prusa i3 Printers, Flashforge, CTC, and Replicator 2x's, Including Makerbots That Use the Same Design. Watch This Video of the Extruder Printing Itself Out of PLA and Then a TPU Benchy at 60mm/s: https://youtu.be/RrYQYZnhPU8 **Parts Needed** * (1) Lower Block * (1) Upper Block * (1) Axle * (1) 604zz Bearing * (3) 35mm M3 Screws * (2) 5-10mm M3 Screws * (3) M3 Nuts If You Encounter Any Issues or Have Suggestions on How to Improve the Instructions, Please Let Me Know. Happy Printing! **Print Settings** * Printer: My Rigidbot or Makerselect i3 V2 Work Well with This Extruder. * Rafts: Not Necessary. * Supports: No. * Resolution: .2mm or Less. * Infill: 25%+. Note: This Part Works Well When Printed Fast, but Printing It Slow Will Yield Better Results. If Your Printer Is Uncalibrated, the Result Will Be Sloppy but Still Functional. I Print Standing Up to Ensure the Screw Holes Are on the Build Plate and the Extruder Is Longest Vertically. **Post-Printing Assembly Instructions** Watch This Video for a Step-by-Step Guide: https://youtu.be/T2W6UJ_LzEg 1. Reverse the Orientation of the Stock Extruder Gear, Leaving It Loose to Position Far Away from the Motor. 2. Attach the Lower Block to the Nema 17 Using Two Shorter Screws (5-10mm), Positioning It Closest to the Connector on the Stepper Motor. 3. Position the Gear to Cover the Filament Opening Through the Block While Maximizing Distance from the Stepper Motor. 4. Center the Bearing on the Axle. 5. Insert the Axle with Bearing into the Slot in the Upper Block. 6. Place the Upper Block Assembly with the Slot Facing Down, Ensuring Screw Holes Match Between the Upper and Lower Blocks. 7. Insert Nuts into Their Cutouts in the Upper Block. 8. Insert Screws from the Opposite Side of the Upper Block and Thread Them into the Nuts Without Over-Tightening. This Is the Fully Assembled Extruder. To Insert Filament, Begin Extruding, Push It Down into the Hole, and Then Tighten Screws Equally (Switching Often) Until Filament Starts to Extrude Out of the Hotend. After Both or Three Screws Are Equalized, Complete One Additional Revolution to Ensure Sufficient Grip for Flexible Filaments. Remove Filament Using a Reverse Extrusion Command as There Is No Idler Release; It Should Come Out without Issue. If Clogged, Increase Retraction Speed and It Should Solve the Problem. **Important:** Do Not Over-Tighten Screws, as High-Torque Motors Cannot Turn Even at 96in/oz.