Navigation Aid

thingiverse

Inogon leading mark This project was inspired by a video demonstrating an innovative approach: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=d99_h30swtM&feature=emb_logo. A video showcasing the functionality of this model can be found here: https://youtu.be/mjXCrSyovAk. I designed this to allow me to back into my garage and repeatedly position my car in the same location. Using a tennis ball on a string could have achieved the same result, but creating this was more enjoyable for me. To build this project, you will need access to a light table, such as the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBA8ZX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. If you use a different light table, be prepared to adjust the dimensions in the FreeCAD design spreadsheet accordingly. One drawback of the light table I selected is that it does not automatically turn on when power is applied; instead, you must first apply power and then activate the switch. After extensive research, I was unable to find any light tables that illuminate automatically upon applying power. It is essential to note that adjusting any aspect of the FreeCAD design may cause many chamfers to shift randomly, necessitating manual correction to restore them to their original positions on the correct edges. These chamfers are crucial in compensating for the "elephant foot" distortion produced by my printer. To complete this project, you will also need an M3 tap to thread the holes and a printer (either inkjet or laser) along with transparency paper. I used an inkjet printer and purchased the following paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07422PH4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Although this paper is translucent rather than clear, it appears to be the most suitable option for inkjet printers. The patterns for the pages can be found in the .svg file, which should be opened using InkScape. This file contains two layers that must be enabled and printed on separate sheets of transparency, each with a slightly different scale. One sheet requires folding along its long dimension to fit into the angled groove of the side pieces. I intentionally made the lines in one layer slightly thicker than those in the other to create an interference pattern where the width of the dark bars appears closer to that of the light bars. You will need two copies of each part except for the HangerBar and the Back_Lower_Strut, which require only a single copy of each. Assemble the frame for the transparencies while leaving off one complicated edge, then slide the transparencies into their respective slots before screwing on the remaining complicated edge. There is a hole near the fold in the complicated edges that serves as a guide for a small string to keep the peaks of these edges together and secure the folded transparency within its groove. Once assembled, attach the mount to the light table, allowing the hooks to be pulled away from the surface to accommodate the transparency frame underneath. This setup will hold the frame firmly in place against the light table. Edit: I have successfully installed this system in my garage. While it functions flawlessly when viewed from a distance in my driveway, the backup camera on my car is too wide-angle to accurately display the direction indicated by the leading mark. However, the position of the rearview mirror is too close to the front of the vehicle for the leading mark to work properly. The optimal viewing point for this setup should be at or behind the rear wheels; otherwise, the angle of the car may cause inaccurate readings and erratic behavior. To resolve this issue, I would need to enlarge the system significantly, but my printer is not large enough to accommodate such a project.