N64,000 Game emulator

thingiverse

This is my custom gaming emulator with this, I can play games from Atari all the way up to Nintendo 64 and PS1. I have carefully modeled each part myself to fit perfectly into an old (and Broken) Nintendo 64 system. Using an ODROID-XU4 makes it much easier and smoother for 4 players at once compared to a Raspberry pi 3. I am using Lakka as my emulation OS, which works great. When building this, my hot glue gun was definitely my best friend to ensure all connections were tight and USB ports were secure. If anyone else wants to put their own spin on it, I would be more than happy to see what you have in mind! Just please don't do this to a working Nintendo 64 system. It broke my heart enough for me to gut this non-working system. What you'll need: An old Nintendo 64 system (preferably broken) and its hardware (screws) ODROID XU4 W/ power supply https://www.amazon.com/ODROID-XU4-Single-Board-Computer-Gigabit/dp/B0163GEA64 Slim 4-Port USB Data Hub like this one:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHYKV9Q?psc=1 (2) 1/2' 2-56 screws (1) SPDT MOM-ON Switch http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cw-industries/G-1132-0003/SW338-ND/161127 (2) 1/4' 4-40 Screws with nuts (1) 1/2' 4-40 screw 28 AWG wire Soldering Iron Hot glue gun LED 1.8V >5mA rating such as these:https://www.digikey.com/products/en/optoelectronics/led-indication-discrete/105?k=led&k=&pkeyword=led&pv543=17&pv543=18&fqq=eBay&fqs= eBay Post-Printing Multiple Players work great for some Mario Party! How I Designed This You will need a special bit to open the Nintendo 64 (posted above). Remove all the guts keeping all the screws. Be sure to save the plastic LED display piece, the Gray cartridge flaps with the springs, and anything else you feel like you want to hold onto. Desolder USB Ports and use roughly 28-30 AWG wire to extend the usb ports out to the printed usb slots. or buy new USB terminals (they would be easier to solder) Everything placed as it should be I have used hot glue to hold the usb terminals secure in the slots and zip ties for strain relief. My USB hub sits under the raft. I would solder the other end of my switch to the same switch that is on the board to the correct terminals. I also Added a 5mA LED to pin 1(5V) and pin 2 (GND) with a 360 ohm resistor in series with the anode of the LED. This unfortunately always has a blue indicator light on my N64K I am working on some code to pull a GPIO to ground for a better indicator light than one that is always on. Also be sure you are using a low current diode because a 10mA or higher diode could break the ODROID The switch is screwed to the Switch_bottom print then glued in place to secure. The white and grey wire are then soldered to the switch on the odroid board The top I printed the gamepack hold downs to make more space inside the console yet still have the appearance of the Nintendo 64 Here is the 270 degree hdmi Adapter I added to route out my permanent HDMI cable. I did this so I would not be cutting into the plastic of the N64 to make any damage to the housing. I also had added MTA connections between my top switch and the switch on the board to make it easy to detach and rework if I ever need to