MyRCCar 1/10 Shocks: 95% 3D Printed Configurable Bigbore RC Car Shocks

thingiverse

I'm absolutely stunned!!! I had doubts about printing something like this until now! Can you imagine why?!! I've seen some decent ideas about shocks around here on Thingiverse, but I thought it was time for me to create my own version. As a challenge, I tried to replicate the measures and functionality of a real RC shock. That means containing oil or silicone and being strong enough to handle my MTC and OBTS chassis. I'm thrilled with the results! First of all, I didn't think I could print well enough for something printed in PLA to contain a fluid. Okay, maybe silicone isn't just a fluid, but... I was also unsure if theoretical joints made of TPU would do the job... Of course, we need some soft elements here. If you take a look at the disassembled picture, there are two blue parts. These are printed in TPU and are MANDATORY. Thanks to these parts, the silicone is well contained inside the shock body - very well contained, I might add! There will be more than 10 parts for a shock, but only three of them need to change for different shock lengths: The body, the axle (3mm piano wire), and the spring. The body includes a screw, and you can adjust spring pre-charge with the provided upper spring holder. I want to apologize for renaming some of the parts. I didn't have time to research their real names in Spanish or English, so I used my own naming convention. A MyRCCar Shock consists of the following parts: * Body (9 different lengths) * Cup Head * Cup Bottom * Seal Head * Seal Bottom * Piston * BigboreHolder Head * BigboreHolder Foot * SpringHolder Head * SpringHolder Foot * LinkSpacerHead * LinkSpacerFoot * Spring (can use big bore 20mm diameter ones or 3D printed) * Axle (the only non-3D printed element) Okay, to be just a shock, these are 12 3D printed parts plus the spring and axle... but they work when you assemble them together! With the provided shock bodies, you can make shocks from 60 to 100mm from eye to eye, bore to bore, hole to hole. For the selected length (for example, 100), you'll need a half-size 3mm piano wire - so for a 100mm shock, you'll need a 3x50mm axle cut from 3mm piano wire. And for an 85mm shock, you'll need a 3x42.5mm one. The same applies to springs: for each shock length, there's a standard (model1) spring that's quite hard... So if you're building a 100mm shock, you can use an 80mm spring; the same goes for an 85mm shock - you'll need a 65mm spring. I've tested the shocks with big bore standard springs (20mm diameter) and also with the screw in the body being compatible with my vandal pre-charge adjusting ring (SpringHolder Head). LinkSpacerHead and Foot are what you need to position your shock correctly when using M3 screws to put them in the chassis. I've tested them with sourced springs, and they work and fit perfectly - just like sourced ones! I'm now printing a second 100mm shock to have a pair and put them in the rear of my new pickup! I want to use my 3D printed springs as they're a few mm wider; I'll need to do links longer for the necessary space for the springs to move freely. So, there will probably soon be a new version of Links for 3D printed springs. Can you believe it?! You have the parts too! Will you give it a try? Choose your length, cut your axle and some PLA and TPU later... you've got "the shock of your dreams"! There are various versions for the piston, with 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 holes - I recommend using the 2-hole version as I'm using the 4-holes one and feel a little resistance. About shock compression... I've done my best to design them so they can compress as much distance as possible. Finally, you can compress a 100mm shock to 65mm, so those are 35mm travel. For a 70mm shock, the travel is 20mm - we could call that shock a 70/50, and the 100 one a 100/65.