My Prusa i3 Plus Feb. 2016 Edition Tweaks

thingiverse

I designed it, its available here, but its not printed and/or installed. When I got and assembled my Prusa i3 Plus Feb. 2016 Edition, I recognized the one or other thing I thought you could make better. The parts are designed so you can use them at assembling, but also to upgrade the assembled printer. For sure this part is all printed with my feb 2016 prusa. When you build the y-axis, keep 80mm space between the nuts on the threaded rod. Measure, fix the nuts, and later in progress it's not that exact anymore. Because of that, you got spacers here. You need two times two of them to connect with each other on the rod. They keep the 80mm, and as long as you hear no cracking plastic and see no gap between them and the nuts, you are fine. IMPORTANT: The .stl file in the package is for 0.4mm nozzles. If you got another one, install openscad, open the .scad file, change the "nozzle" variable on top, render it, and export a new stl file. You may also need to tweak the "flapfactor" variable so your slicer generates the flap correct. Marrying the portal with the y-axis is a bit tricky because it is simply not standing. With the portalstand, you need two, and you get something to make it stand by itself. Also even if it's not believable with this tiny plastic thing, later the vibrations at printing (note the roundings for force redirection) but also the overall stability and precision are increased a lot. They may seem a bit tight at first look, and you need force to place them (it may also crack a bit), but they should be very fix. In the tutorial, they say one should push the piece of filament until the end of fan shaft. Well, you cannot do that since the hole is simply ending somewhere but not channeling to the fan shaft. This causes problems with the fan holder at printing time. Here you find a 5015housing-MK3.stl with the hole how it should be. If you want to use the tweaked x-carriage I mention below, also use 5015housing-MK3-tweaked.stl. When the x-axis moves, it may happen that a force is applied to the printing fan. In this case, the top nose of the x carriage may break. I changed the design a bit. Use x-carriage-tweaked.stl in combination with 5015housing-MK3-tweaked.stl. What's not written in the guide, after assembly before calibrating z, since now you know everything is straight, you can do an "lcd: settings->auto home" and check the distance between the delivered plastic parts with a caliper. For sure they are not equal. Just turn the nuts on the z-axis threaded rods at the top to adjust. The plastic parts for calibrating z could be also tweaked by drawing quarter marks on them. Maybe with numbers, so you know exactly which one is which. A nice stabilizer reducing the wobbling of the z axis threaded rods can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1425056 Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Plus Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.25 Infill: 30% Notes: 0.4 nozzle was used