My Mark VI NanoHack Redesign

thingiverse

This is my seventh major reverse engineered and redesigned version of the NanoHack Mask found here: https://copper3d.com/hackthepandemic/. For build tutorials and other information regarding my mask re-designs, you can look here: https://www.fie.us/my-nanohack-redesign/. To be absolutely clear, this is not their v2.0 design. This is my redesign based on their 1.0 release. For reasoning behind my desire to do a design change, see: https://www.fie.us/2020/03/22/a-look-at-nanohack-3d-printable-respirator-mask/. Unlike its predecessors, The Mark VII is meant to be printed mostly from flexible filament/material. There is no longer a separate flexible gasket. Rather, the whole mask is the seal. It also requires no tools to assemble. There is no need to thermo-form it when it prints correctly. The thickness of the mask varies to provide rigidity and flexibility in the right places. I have printed it in two different flexible TPU filaments without modification of the thickness. I've included the FreeCAD source files along with the STL just in case anyone wants to modify it. I am not a scientist, engineer or medical professional. I don't know if this design is functional or dangerous. But I'm providing it anyway in an emergency situation. In addition to the main mask body and nose clip in this thing, you will typically need the following or equivalents: I use my re-designed cap: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4237544. I use my cloth filter holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4237520. This provides a good enough seal to use a 100% cotton or cotton blend filter as per this research paper: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/258525804_Testing_the_Efficacy_of_Homemade_Masks_Would_They_Protect_in_an_Influenza_Pandemic. I typically use four medium strength rubber bands and my modifications to the HP strap adjustor here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4251083. There are two sets of sizing holes on the chin strap. Additional sizing holes can be made with a knife, hole-punch or leather hole-punch. There is one sizing hole on the nose flap. Similarly, additional holes can be cut easily as needed. The nose clip can be re-formed/shaped by heating the clip in boiling water if need be. The seams along the chin mostly self seal with the pressure of the strap. However, one can also more permanently and surely seal the seams with various adhesives, tapes and the like. E6000 glue works well with the TPU I used. Though, I load my 3d-printing pen with TPU filament to seal mine. You will need to test your material for the right adhesive/sealant. I print the mask from TPU without supports. I print the nose clip out of PET-G WITH supports. I close the nose seam by putting the post through the hole. I secure the chin flap by lining up the holes with the strap holes on the mask. I secure it with rubber-band straps. I attach the nose clip by putting the posts through the keyholes.