Multi-Media Filament Spool A-Frame Updated

prusaprinters

Another multi-material extravaganza! ABS, stainless steel, and wood.3D printers are awesome, there is no doubt, but there is no reason that everything has to be printed!I feel that this is a great balance of print time, strength, and certainly fun!You can make the A-frame whatever size you want. I have mine sized for Hatchbox spools. The feet have adhesive foam on them to keep it running silent, and to keep it from sliding around on the Lack enclosure.This is strong enough to support more than one 1kg spool. All you have to do is make it tall enough for your largest diameter, and as wide as you need for multiple spools, as long as they have the same inner diameter.Print SettingsPrinter: Prusa i3 MK2SRafts: NoSupports: Yes*Resolution: 0.2 mmInfill: 50%Filament: Hatchbox ABS Whatever you like!Notes:These are sized for printing in ABS. The 1/4-in dowel, and 3/8-in dowel fit snugly but do not require drilling out.You will need:12 X PostSocketRounded.stl4 X Foot.stl2 X BearingHolderChamfer.stl2 X SpoolAdaptorNutPlugChamfer.stl2 X SpoolAdaptor54mmTaperChamfer.stlNote that the only part that requires support is the BearingHolderChamfer.stl. A part without support will survive, but the bottom half of the round-over comes out a bit wonky.Post-PrintingOther Required Parts:Quantity 4 1/4-20 hex head bolt by 1 1/4-in, stainlessQuantity 2 1/4-20 by 5.75-in long***stainless threaded rodQuantity 1 1/4-20 by 4.25-in long*** stainless threaded rod (spool axle)Quantity 14 1/4-20 stainless hex nutsQuantity 4 3/8-in dowel 4 3/16-in longQuantity 2 3/8-in dowel 6 13/16-in longQuantity 2 5/16-in diameter 0.28-in wall stainless tubing, cut to ~7-mm in length and deburred (K+S 87117)Quantity 2 608 bearings. I use Dragon brand Speed model bearings.* Mine is set up for Hatchbox spools which are 2 11/16-in from outside-of-flange to outside-of-flange.** Mine is set up for Hatchbox spools. The bottom leg length matches the diameter of the spool (7 7/8-in), and the angled legs bring it up just high enough to clear the table even without the feet.Post-ProcessingPlace a PostSocketRounded on each end of all 6 pieces of 3/8-in dowel. You will want the nut socket sides facing the same direction at each end of the dowel. Use the flat back side of the PostSocketRounded to ensure that they are aligned to each other.Once you have put the PostSocketRounded on the dowel, you need to drill out the printed hole to 1.75 mm diameter, and all the way through the dowel. Drill from both sides of the post socket and meet in the middle.Those holes allow you to use filament to pin the post sockets on to the dowels.Push a piece of filament through the hole. I leave the filament a bit long on both sides and glue it with a drop of Plastruct Bondene (dichloromethane) then trim the ends flush to the PostSocketRounded with a sharp hobby knife.The post sockets are meant to be able to capture the 1/4-20 nuts on one side.I capture the heads of the bolts in the BearingHolder, and the inner nuts on the horizontal frame segments. That allows for easy access for tightening the nuts on the outside to keep it all together.You will also need to place a 1/4-20 a nut in each of the SpoolAdaptor54mmTaperChamfer and retain it with a SpoolAdaptorNutPlugChamfer. If printed in ABS you can glue with dichloromethane or acetone.You will also need to insert the short sections of 5/16 tubing in to the 608 bearings. It will be a light press fit.