MPSM Monoprice Mini - Primacreator P120 - E3D V6 No Offset Hot End Carriage Mount

thingiverse

I needed to design a hot-end mount system that could accommodate both a 40mm Noctua fan and a radial fan for part cooling. My previous design had some flaws, so I decided to make some changes and built this new system from scratch using the USWaterRockets rear carriage design as a base. Some key points to consider: * This system likely requires removing the front panel of the tower due to its tight tolerances, which are necessary for achieving zero-offset compatibility with stock Prusa MK3 fan shrouds. * The system is compatible with stock Prusa MK3 fan shrouds and other MK3 fan shrouds, allowing you to benefit from their excellent designs and airflow while also making it easy to replace them if needed. * There's space on the right and behind the blower for adding attachments; let me know what you're interested in, and I'll do my best to make it happen. * All screws are M3; use suitable lengths to avoid over-tightening, such as M3x12 for 40mm fan screws or M3x20 for radial fan screws. The main body screws can be M3x20 or longer, with nuts recommended for a secure fit. * The belt tightening and fastening bolt holders are simple but tricky to insert; once in place, they work perfectly. I've included them so you don't have to search for them elsewhere. * Please see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2353376 for further instructions on using the belt tightening and fastening bolt holders. You may also need to switch to a GT2 belt, pulley, and drive gear (highly recommended anyway and very affordable). * The MK3 fan shroud I used as an example can be found here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2971474; please note that it's not my design. * Print the system in a suitable material such as PETG, ABS, or Carbonfibre to ensure it withstands high temperatures and warping. * Use a silicone sock over the heater block to prevent problems. * If you find that the MK3 fan shroud needs to be positioned further from the print head, mount the radial fan with spacers, washers, or a nut; this allows for flexibility based on your specific setup. * Due to tight tolerances and structural integrity concerns, use supports (just from the build plate) during printing. This ensures you can print with important parts facing up. * Print with 100% infill for optimal results. * Print one of each STL file, choosing which clamp version you prefer; for now, there are two options: a vanilla basic one and another with a cable tying post set at an angle. If you need anything specific, let me know.