MPCNC Electronics Enclosure - Yet Again

thingiverse

Trying something new. Crappy videos showing how I am wiring this up. Some may find it helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIz90tlhOZI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oepT8dVYlXs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9jZrplQPrs I've finished the power wiring and will move on to the TMC2130's and other system wiring next week. Edit 7/30/19: Wiring this up now. I purchased the following to get the MKS Gen L to the Pi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B454YY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is 3' long so I will shorten it. To power the Pi from the Buck converter, I will be using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GMP4E4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 More to follow. I am nearing completion of the Awesomely designed MPCNC. I decided to make my own enclosure based on my familiarity with the Marlin flavor of 3D Printing. The main components are: MKS Gen L (TMC2130's as the driver boards - More on this below) Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Buck Converter Meanwell LRS-100-24 Switching Supply (The MPCNC uses a 12v 5a, so 60W, this will do 100W, so there's plenty of room for expansion, plus, all my stuff is 24V) (2) 40MM fans - 24V Hardware is all 3mm, Various lengths, Nyloc and standard nuts. You will need (2) M3x25 to attach E_PS1. The E_TOP part is a big print and it was all my modded Ender 3 could do, but it works. Use (4) nyloc nuts in the pockets provided for attachment. Regular nuts probably would have worked, but Nylocs are cool. Orient the parts to allow for no supports before you slice. I printed all the parts @ 55% infill. It is an enclosure, non-structural, just don't tighten the hardware until you hear cracks (Like the instructions for the MPCNC - Snug, not torqued). My design parameters were to have a Wifi outlet switch to turn it on and off with my phone, Same as my printer. Thus there is no switch on board. I am using Marlin firmware. I love TMC 2130's - Not for their silent stepper effect (there's a 90dB router going) but rather because of Sensorless Homing and the on board tuning and monitoring and the fact that you can adjust the vRefs via the terminal. Octorpint is amazing and I want that and the Raspberry Pi is a $38 super star. I plan on routing the wire with the provided zip tie holes in the E_BASE part (Also, in keeping with the MPCNC design theory - Zip Ties Saves Lives). As far as the Fan Guards and the Top Grill, these incorporate my brewery symbol and I have included the FreeCad files for the e_slat part so you can include the center symbol as you wish. Any 40mm Guard cover can be used and there are hundreds on Thingiverse. As far as the buck converter, apparently there are 100 different layouts. I ended up having to drill holes and use spacers to accommodate mine. See the photos where I planned to locate mine. There are other 3mm x 5mm spacers on Thingiverse, but I have my own and included them if you want to use them. Happy Printing and Milling.