Motorcycle Throttle Tube Saver

thingiverse

This is a very simple solution to a pretty common problem. I made this one for a Yamaha TTR-125, but there are only a few handlebar / tube sizes, so it will probably work with a BUNCH of bikes, and it would be easy to throw together another one for a bike with different size bars. Basically, over time and with a few drops, the throttle tube on dirt bikes breaks or wears at the far end. The purpose of the tube is just to be a slider between the handlebar (that won't turn) and the grip (which turns with your hand) to pull the throttle cable. The problem is that even if just the very end of the throttle tube is damaged, all of a sudden the grippy rubber grips are dragging on the stationary handlebar wherever the throttle tub is absent. It doesn't take much before the throttle sticks on. In theory, when these are worn or damaged, you should be able to just replace the tube. But they are either impossible to find or stupid expensive. You can get cheap sketchy throttle assemblies with tubes and grips all together cheap enough, but then you are gambling if your cable ends will fit, if it is cheap junk (most are), or if it will run into some other fitment problem. This is a nice simple hack. Print it from PLA, push it down into the end of a new grip (no glue or hairspray or anything, it will tuck down there nicely), and then install the grip over the mostly intact throttle tube as normal (I use hair spray). Now any damage on the last inch or so of the throttle tube is covered by a new slider that works great. It may even make sense to put this on proactively when the tube is still good to give it some protection when you drop it on the right side. Use at your own risk, it seems pretty safe to me, and seems far safer than a sticking throttle due to a dragging grip, but this is a free and unproven design. It took about 5 minutes to design, even on the very limited free Microsoft 3d builder program. Create a cylinder you want for the outside diameter and total length of this cap, create a second cylinder you want for the inside diameter, raise the inner cylinder by a couple mm, and then subtract it from the first cylinder. Easy Peasy. I think I ended up with about a 1mm wall thickness. We will see how it holds, but given it is captive in the grip, even if the walls crack or split from the endcap part, it will probably continue to work fine. If anyone uses it, let me know how it works!