Monoprice Select Mini Thumbwheel Leveling System

thingiverse

This is a detailed guide on how to install a new heat bed leveling system for a 3D printer using M2 screws and thumb wheels. Here's a step-by-step breakdown of the instructions: 1. Remove existing heat bed clips: The first step is to remove the existing heat bed clips from the gantry. This will allow you to access the nuts that hold the clips in place. 2. Clean out old glue: If there was adhesive used previously, it may be difficult to get the clips off. Use a solvent such as acetone or nail polish remover to clean this area before continuing. You can also use a small hobby knife to scrape out the old glue. Be careful not to scratch the aluminum. 3. Install M2 nuts: Place an M2 nut in each of the clips and make sure they are seated properly inside the clip. It may take a little to get them to seat properly. It is HIGHLY recommended that you super glue these in place. Please allot enough time for the glue to dry or the wheel will not be usable. You've been warned. 4. Install M2 screws: Run an M2 screw through the nut a few times to make sure the inner threads of the nut are clear of dried glue. It might take some doing to clean it out but it's not too hard. I don't recommend heating the nuts and melting them in place since this tends to leave them not flush. If the nuts aren't flush with the face of the bed, it will make the wheels very difficult to turn. 5. Install wheel into bracket: Place the wheels into the slots of the brackets. The nut should be facing down. 6. Attach screws to heat bed: The 4 M2 screws must be securely fastened to the heat bed so that they DO NOT TURN. This is accomplished with the nylon lock nuts or lock washers. Also secure existing cup washers as shown in the pictures. Use M2 washers on the top of the bed to prevent the screw head from falling through the screw hole. 7. Screw brackets to the gantry: Remove the screws that hold the bed gantry to the y-axis rods. You can do this without harming anything. Just don't move the bed a bunch after you have unscrewed. Place the bracket on the bed and using the same screws, screw the bracket to the bed. Repeat for the other bracket. Please be careful that you install the correct brackets on the front and back. 8. Assemble the heat bed: Place the heat bed on top of the brackets. The screws should line up with the center of the wheels. If they do not loosen them and re-align until they do. Place the existing 4 springs around the screws and make sure they seat into the depression of the brackets. Press down with the face of your hand on the heat bed until the screws seat with the top of the nuts in the thumb wheels. Turn each thumb wheel counter clockwise until the screw catches in the nut and it holds. At this point your heat bed should be securely fastened. 9. Install the z-axis spacer: Lower the bed with the thumb wheels as low as they will go. Because the brackets add 12mm to the z-axis height, we have to adjust for this. 3 spacers are available for printing: 0mm offset, 3mm offset, and 4mm offset. The 0mm offset should be used by those that have not added a surface such as glass to the heat bed. BuildTak users, tape users, etc should use the 0 mm offset spacer. If you are using glass or another substrate choose the appropriate width (3mm or 4mm) for your application. Place the spacer as shown in the picture. The spacer clearly labels the correct orientation. It should snap into place. 10. Level the bed: It is important to note that with this mod there is no play in the bed if the nozzle dives into it. PLEASE USE CARE WHEN HOMING THE NOZZLE AS TO NOT RUIN BOTH YOUR NOZZLE AND HEAT BED. With the bed lowered as low as it can go, home the printer. Be prepared to shut the printer off if you feel the nozzle is pressing too hard on the bed. From this point you should be able to adjust the thumb wheels to level the bed. Again, there is no play in the bed as there used to be. If the nozzle goes too low, it will dig into the bed causing damage. Be sure your leveling is spot on. 11. That's it!