Monoprice Select Mini Red Lizard Mount

thingiverse

Hello All! Lately I've been using .25mm nozzles on my select mini to print out minis with better details than either of my other printers can handle. As you would imagine, the nozzle clogged and no atomic pulls would fix it. As I had done an E3D_V6 upgrade in the past, changing the nozzle is a pain as the nozzle has to be hot, I have to twist both the nozzle and the block without breaking anything, the E3D_V^ mount doesn't fully stop the hotend from spinning, and I have to have a replacement as well as a way to secure the hotend as it cools. I knew from building my Voron that rigid mounted hotends exist, but as this printer is quite old at this point, no one has really designed any new upgrades. So, I took it upon myself to take the upgrade that follows the same designs as USWaterRockets and Toys. The mounting holes and footprint match that of the original hotend upgrades, so Toys' video on disassembling and reassembling is a good step by step to make this upgrade. I also copied the fan mounts from their designs, so you can still use the layer cooling fans they (or I) have designed. The E3DV6 heating element and cartridge thermistor are also compatible, so you can simply switch out the hotend and the assembly at the same time. The holes in the top were copied from the CAD schematics provided with the Red Lizard, so the mounting holes as well as the center hole match. The hole at the top is designed to have a pc4-m6 fitting cut its own threads into the plastic (your mileage may vary). If you have issues pushing filament into the hotend through the tubing, I've found that moving the hotend out to the farthest point on the arm makes the tubing a straight shot for the filament to enter the hotend, though you can also just remove the tubing from the fitting, push the filament into the hotend, then push the tube back into the fitting while holding the extruder motor.. Just a side note, make sure your fan profile is set to 100% at the beginning. Because of how small this hotend is, if that fan isn't spinning, the heat travels up the throat fast and can easily cause jams (learned this as half my prints would fail at the first layer after installing until I adjusted this setting). Lastly, and this is IMPORANT, I recommend making this out of a more heat resistant material than PLA. While you "can" use PLA ( I have tested these parts using PLA before ordering ABS parts to replace it once the design was finalized) I don't recommend it. I don't know how to run heat simulations, but I don't imagine having this small a hotend with it's heatblock rigid mounted to the cool side will be the best when mixed with PLA. Please feel free to leave any comments or suggestions. I can't promise I can or will make any changes, but I hope this modification helps someone else out like it has for me.