MonoPrice Select Mini Bed Expansion (150mmx230mm)

thingiverse

UPDATES: 1/24/2018 - I've added an option to use thumbwheels to level the bed. The change to materials is minimal, using 4-40x1" machine screws for bed adjustments instead of 6-32x1". There are slight edits to all parts. The original no-thumbscrews bed holders are still uploaded if you prefer the original style. Sand the edges of thumbwheels lightly to smooth out any extra protrusions as clearance is semi-tight. Applying a dab of glue on top of screws to stop them from spinning when turning the thumbwheel isn't a bad idea. PROJECT SUMMARY: This modification expands the MonoPrice Select Mini's print bed depth to 230mm at an affordable price. I can utilize a printable area of 130mm x 220mm with these modifications. The cost was approximately $60 for me, nearly the same as the unheated "4th dimension modifications" "Maximus" kit but my build includes a heated bed. Note that you'll need to upgrade the Select Mini's power supply to use the heater; I plan to create a basic guide for this soon. SOME NOTES: - No special tools (except a 3D printer) are required for this project. I used a hacksaw, scissors, a drill with 1/8" and 5/32" drill bits, and a measuring device. - Most non-3D printer specific parts (8mm rod, belt, and the bed itself) were purchased from my local Ace Hardware. - I used Imperial sized (6-32) bolts instead of Metric (M3 or M4) bolts. They're cheaper locally in the US; like 1/3 to 1/2 the price. Sorry, I'd rather use metric too... M4 will probably work fine and allow use of nut inserts. LINKS: Print Bed: Note: This link is probably sold out (sorry, maybe my fault) but the bed appears to be an aftermarket replacement for the FlashForge Pro, so searching for "flashforge pro bed" on eBay seems to turn up desirable results. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAYY70Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Belt: Note: This is WAY too much belt. You only need ~30cm and could save money by buying a smaller quantity. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2IQNX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rods: https://www.ebay.com/itm/300-350-400mm-8mm-Chromed-Rod-Parts-DIY-CNC-Linear-Rail-Shaft-for-3D-Printer/122850462999?hash=item1c9a754d17:m:m3bE2vd9IhcoeTMEq0XmC7Q A REALLY REALLY BRIEF BUILD GUIDE: Looking at your printer as it comes apart is crucial. This guide skips a lot of stuff that you should be able to figure out on your own. - Printing I printed everything with 100% infill and 0.1mm layers using PLA. Time will tell if the PLA holds up to the heat from the heated bed but it looks good IMO. - Cutting Aluminum Cut aluminum to 150mm for the front and rear, and approximately 2-5mm shorter than your rods for the left and right sides. It's okay if the aluminum is a few mm short but not a few mm long. - Drilling Assemble and square the frame off of the printer. Ensure that the 8mm rods are against the aluminum and are the same spacing as on the printer. Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill through the holes in the 3D printer parts, and expand the holes shown in the pictures in the aluminum only. - Assembly When assembling the frame on the printer initially, do not tighten the 2 screws in the front and rear that were drilled oversized. Push the frame to the farthest back point of travel and tighten the front screw, then vise versa. This prevents binding. - Installing the bed When installing the bed, I placed the connector for the electronics toward the outside of the printer. It will bind if placed on the inside. - Installing the belt The belt loops through this frame differently than the stock printer but still goes through the stepper motors the same way and the layout in the frame should be obvious. The ribs in the belt will sit in the ribs on the inside edge of the frame.