Molex-style 24-pin male connector for vintage Icom Accessory Port

thingiverse

This is a male Molex-style connector intended to fit the 24-pin accessory connector on the back of certain vintage Icom radios (such as the IC-701 and IC-720a HF transceivers). Like the radios that used them, these connectors (MPN 1625-24P, I think) have not been manufactured for many years. If you want to build a computer interface for such a radio, such as the KA6BFB interface at http://tinkyr.altervista.org/radio/projects/Vintage_Icom_Interface.htm, you will need to either scrounge up a long-discontinued Molex connector or fabricate one yourself. Please be very careful when wiring the connector and connecting it to the radio. This connector is keyed to discourage connecting it upside down. But it could probably be forced on wrong, and the consequences would likely be catastrophic for the radio. You could also bend and/or short the pins if you aren't careful. Please don't get mad at me if you foul up the wiring and trash your radio. Additional notes: - You will need some compatible Molex male crimp pins, probably 1.57mm or .062" diameter made for 1625 series. Those should be far easier to find than the connectors. - I have only implemented holes for the pins that are actually useful in a computer interface for one of the applicable Icom radios. If you need a different pin combination, you are free to modify the design using the provided FreeCAD source. - I originally designed this part with a pocket on the wire side of the connector for the purpose of using epoxy or potting compound to secure the wires in place. But that version requires support during the build, and the support tends to foul up the pin holes (meaning more hand cleanup after printing). So I have also provided a shorted version that tends to print more cleanly. You can still epoxy the wires in place, such as by using tape or some other material to form a dam around the edge of the connector until the epoxy hardens. - If you do use epoxy to secure the wires, make sure it isn't so runny that it leaks down around the pins. And if you use hot melt glue instead of epoxy, watch the temperature. PLA softens at a temperature very close to the melting point of some glues.