Modified TUSH++ rail and stabilizer with proper rib spacing and countersink pocket

thingiverse

Note: I recommend printing the **stabilizers** with a -0.1mm horizontal expansion. It'll fit without it, but you run the risk of shearing off a layer on the rails. Or, just go fix the OpenSCAD model first. The parts in the drybox model from which this was derived do not fit together without serious manipulation of horizontal expansion, etc. in the slicer. Even if you manage to get the rails to fit on the stabilizers, a normal M3 screw head will interfere with the rails, preventing them from seating in the proper position for a standard sized filament roll. After making several pieces that didn't work, I decided to learn OpenSCAD and made this version of the stabilizer. This stabilizer bar is taller to provide room for an M3 bolt head (~3mm) and the ribs are spaced to fit the original bearing rails snugly. I've included the modified TUSH++ rail. The only difference from the original is that the notches for the stabilizer are 3mm higher to allow it to sit flush with the dry box base. If I were rebuilding this, I'd add another 1mm for tolerance. BIG thanks to @kagiit for the base and design. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5138492) The base could be significantly improved by replacing the very-cool hexagon pattern with a square or triangular grid. Most of the print time is spent tracing hexagons. The stabilizer would benefit from rounded edges to avoid rapid acceleration at corners.