MMU2 Selector M1 with magnet

cults3d

Problem: Sensor Ball Gets Stuck On Filament Remains, Causing False Reading You can identify this issue by looking for the red light on the sensor, which indicates a false reading. Solution: Add A Magnet To Pull The Sensor Ball Down Inspiration From: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3264138?fbclid=IwAR3Br4l3gb8sW_vRHaejj-BtqOAKxJ_pdr-Z7ZXjYd72WMqB6pMG3DffwyQ This solution is similar to the previous one, but uses different magnets and a unique approach to install them. It's based on the M1 version of the Prusa part. There are two versions: M1_A and M1_B. M1_A uses a 10mm x 2mm magnet in a flat coin shape, while M1_B uses a 10mm x 3mm magnet with a hole from Hardhead. The latter can be found on jula.com. M1_A has the strongest magnetic pull on the sensor ball, making it the recommended choice. However, M1_B also works well and was used extensively before switching to M1_A. Changes Made: * Chamfered inlet to the selector from the MMU2 idler * Magnet chamber added * POM nut now held by one 15mm-16mm screw A tip from a Facebook group suggests raising the Finda prob as high as possible within its reading range. This will result in fewer jams and false readings due to tips with tails. To check your Finda reading range, observe when the red light is on or off. Adjust the Finda setting accordingly. As of 30.03.2019, the setup has been stable using M1_A. Total Mods On My MMU2: * M1_A selector * MMU2 Idler body with gear (extruder) * MMU2 Pulley Body v2 Straight through feed * MMU2 Angled & Dropped Mounts I'm running a standard extruder, but had to drill the existing hole above the gears with a 3mm bit due to narrow spacing. I use auto rewind spools from Vincent, which work great after some use. The spring is positioned on the left side of the spoolholder.