MMU-Compatible Enclosure Lid Safety-Harness Upper Lid Bracket

prusaprinters

The lifting lid of the MMU compatible prusa enclosure becomes very back heavy when five of my dryboxes are on top. While servicing the printer I pushed the lid up too high and it flipped all the way back on itself, destroying the hinges, and several of my rewinders and tube adapters. In order to avoid this happening again I designed an anchor point for the lid intended for a 2mm twisted steel cable to loop through and create an over-lifting protection. I imagine it would also work with nylon cords or twine if they are thin enough. The anchor is designed to use a large area of contact on the top of the lid as attachment to the lid, since a screwed plate to the inside of the lid would rip out in a full force flip. The large plate also serves as a cover for any imperfections in cuts to the top of the enclosure. Printing It is important the part is printed horizontally so the layer weaknesses are perpendicular to the force of the pull of the chord. I saved the print settings and orientation in the provided 3mf Installation When looking at the enclosure's doors, find the right edge on the top surface of the lid. Using the part with the rod facing upwards as sizing, mark a square on the top surface to cut open. The long edge of the flat plate of the bracket should be (approximately) flush with the edge of the lid. Cut the square out with a utility knife or other sharp implement Take a center-punch, or screwdriver if you don't have one, put it through the hole and touching the middle of the bottom card stock and laminate layer of the enclosure lid. HAMMER FIST the center punch through the bottom layer. Insert the bracket rod through the upper square hole you cut, and up against the circular hole you punched HAMMAAH FISTUH the part through the bottom layer of the enclosure lid. Trim off bits of cardboard and particle board that are sticking out. Slide a brass crimp onto the end of the 2mm steel cable. Using pliers, bend a 45 degree bend in the 2mm steel cable about 1cm away from the end, and then another 45 degree bend in the same direction a further 5mm down the cable. Insert the cable through the eliptical slot in the tip of the bracket, and out the other side, pulling so some slack is present. Slide up the crimp to near the tip of the bracket. Insert the loose end into the open slot of the crimp. Tighten the loop to a reasonable length Crimp the crimp closed. Close the lid most of the way down, and make note of the spot along the frame of the enclosure the bracket tip goes to. Drill two side by side holes in the bottom of the U shaped trough at the spot you made note of. Open the lid all the way to the highest notch of the prop stick. Measure out the desired length of steel cable, accounting for the length of the loop through the two holes, and cut to length with snips, bolt cutters, or plier cutters. Thread a crimp onto the steel cable. Feed the cable into one hole and back out the other Feed the loose end of the cable through the crimp. Slide the crimp up along the wire until the wire is almost taught. Crimp the second crimp. Done. Category: 3D Printer Accessories