Mk8/Mk10s adapter for Eryone Thinker

thingiverse

This is my own take for the Eryone hotend fix after constantly removing the whole thing to fix the clog So this modification is inspired by other mod by ve5yan https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4881419/files This modification will work on BOTH MK8 and MK10s so you don't need to worry which one to get Print setting: *** Mk8 Lite Adapter *** - Material: PETG - Resolution: 0.15mm - Infill: 60% - Wall: 4-5 - Iron: Doesn't matter *** M10 Hotend Fix *** - Material: PETG - Resolution: 0.15mm - Infill: 60% - Wall: 4-5 - Iron: Doesn't matter Print flat side on the bed surface BOM: - (x2) M3x8mm Socket Cap (SC) Screws - (x2) M3x20mm SC Screws Note: - The holes on the adapter are made smaller than regular size for self-tapping. - Please don't over tighten the screws as you might strip the threads Assembly instruction 1) Cut the flange on the existing housing with a rectangular shape of 30(H) x 25(W) 2) Cut a piece of Bowden tube to the length of 31.5mm to 32mm. At this length, you should be able to have about 5mm of threads from the PC4-M10 fitting in with the 2mm spacer. However, please do your own measurement to make sure it works fine with your setting 3) Check for obstruction inside the heatbreak. 4) Slide the tube in all the way until it meets the nozzle 5) Insert the 2mm spacer in with the chamfer side up 6) Fully tighten the PC4-M10 until you can't move any further 7) Place the bracket over the heatsink. ***Note***: The notch side of the bracket will be on the same side where all the cables from the thermistor and heating cartridge come out. 8) Screw in the M3x20mm SC screws all the way. 9) Remove the existing side fan and rotate it 90 CCW. Tighten it back. Doing this will give you more slack on the fan cable 10) Place the fully assembled hotend in the carriage housing 11) With (x2) M3x8mm SC screws, tighten the bracket to the housing Follow the same procedure that you might do to calibrate your bed again.