Minumus Cooler for Ender 3 V2 Neo AND Ender 3 Neo with Original Hot End Heatsink

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Ender 3 V2 NEO remix of Minimus cooling system, for use with the ORIGINAL hot end (the super wide one), now ALSO covers the Ender 3 NEO!The Minimus Part Cooling system from Rogue Designs on Cults already has a version for the V2 Neo, but you need to change the hot end because it will not fit with the original. The Original Minumus has a phenomenal array of ducts and blower variations, and if you want to print a lot hotter (Spider, etc) that is what I would use.You can find that here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/minimus-snap-4010-3-pro-3v2-5-neo-maxIt's less than $2 and worth it, and you might want to check out the Armadillo wire management system. Both of these designs were featured on Ricky Impy's YouTube channel.This is a remix of another remix of that design. I wanted to use the OE hot end because I'm happy with the performance even at speeds a lot higher than stock. I found a remix of the system but it had so many issues with fitment and clearances, hot end cooling, ducts, etc that I remade the whole thing, but I need to give them some credit because they put a fair amount of work into it.(Can be found here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/minimus-cooler-system-shroud-dual-wide-ender-3-v2-neo)It uses 2 4010 blower fans for part cooling and One 4010 Hot-end Fan. There are 2 shroud versions, a regular one, and a "Hexxed" version like you can get with the original. Both snap onto the backplate by inserting part way raised and then sliding down until they snap into place. The bottom of the part cooling fan housing will be below the CR Touch mount when you insert it. Be careful of your wiring. The backplate consists of 2 parts, the backplate, and the spacer. The spacer MUST be used. There are different sets of parts depending if you have the Ender 3 Neo or the Ender 3 V2 Neo. Make sure you use the correct parts. The Ender 3 Neo backplate spacer doubles as the interface with the X-axis switch. The backplate for the Ender 3 Neo also has a probe that is more forward to miss the switch cover/stepper motor mount. Use the right spacer and backplate for your machine,The spacer has a cutout for the bolt it partially covers and will move the baseplate to the perfect space to prevent anything from touching the gantry or covers when it homes. The spacer and backplate holes are meant to be tight and fit precisely to the standoffs. You may need to chamfer the holes to allow them to be started but you want it to be tight with no possibility of movement. Get it part way on and pull it home with the heatsink screw.The CR touch is held on with 2 M3X8 screws and 2 nuts. The CR_Touch nutlock will hold the nuts from spinning. I thought this was a better solution than screwing into plastic. You must set a new offset for the probe as it is moved to the left about 8mm. The height on my machine is the same. MEASURE your probe offset before you change anything, and after. Spacers are included if you need to lower the probe. With Creality's QC I would bet there are variations. The heatsink is held on with the original screws. Assemble with the spacer first with the cutout facing the carriage over the bolt, with the backplate on top. The parts cooling fans snap in, as do the ducts. The hot-end fan needs the cover to be held in place, otherwise it can move. Either cover will work, and you could make your own. The legs of the cover will need to be snipped off once you insert them into your fan. The "hood ornament" is just a copy of the symbol on the original shroud (credit to the first remix) and you can just superglue it on or leave it off completely. Also depending on your machine you may have to modify the ducts as they are quite close to the heater sock. You don't need much space. If you notice any warpage, you could modify your slicer settings to run the parts fans at 5% to keep them cool, I did not find this necessary. There are 5 sets of ducts, standard length, and ones that sit 1, 2, and 3mm lower, and 1 set that sits 1 mm higher. With the variance in machines, you may need to print a longer or shorter set to get the best puddle of air under your nozzle and the right clearance. They are a fast print and need no support, so I suggest you print the standard ones (with no offset numbers in the file name) and measure from the bed to be sure you don't have part interference, and then do a water test to make sure you have a good puddle of air under the nozzle. You could end up with a combination of duct sizes. On my V2 the standard are dialed in perfectly. The fellow who helped me figure out the Ender 3 Neo needed a standard on one side and a negative on the other. It's machine-dependent. Probe offset (on mine) is X -49.0 Y -8.4, but measure, and update your probe offset.2/3/24Updated the duct files, specifically the right side I tweaked quite a bit. Now I have really good centered air directly under the nozzle. Suggest if you printed a previous version of the ducts to print the new right side. It's the only part that was changed. Eliminated the 4mm lower ducts. Probably will do the same with the others but I am still working out the Ender 3 Neo and am not aware of the nozzle position and am awaiting feedback.2/5/24 Added two more ducts with a negative position of 1mm to work with the Ender 3 Neo. (RIGHTDuct-1mm_V2NEO_Minimus_OE_Heatsink and LEFTDuct-1mm_V2NEO_Minimus_OE_Heatsink)2/13/24 Added updated (and final) Version of the cooler for the Ender 3 Neo (not the V2) with special backplate spacer that also interfaces with your X switch, and a relocated probe mount that clears the switch housing and homes well off the bed. (Thanks to Thomas Young for the help and filament to prefect this, I couldn't have done it otherwise)