Miniature Amstrad PC1640 NTP Deskclock

thingiverse

Here's the output text: Update: added base plate, keyboard base with mounting inserts for OLED screens, and a floppy disk box model. This miniature replica of an Amstrad PC1640 houses an OLED screen and ESP32 microcontroller. I created this project to test scaling down complex objects using openSCAD software. To assemble it, you'll need a long M4 screw (about 30mm) and its corresponding nut. Rubber feet or a piece of 1mm rubber sheet can help prevent the model from sliding around. For electronics, two 3mm LEDs (red and green) are required, along with a microcontroller to drive your display – I used an ESP32 and ESP8266. Mounting inserts for common .96" and 1.3" OLED modules from Amazon or Aliexpress have been included in the model. Additional details will be added soon, including links to matching displays and boards. Print Settings: CTC Prusa i3 Clone Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: .1-.2 (see picture for recommendations) Infill: 40-100% depending on part Printing notes: Active cooling is a must for fine details. All models are oriented correctly for printing. I added an alternative monitor front to make printing easier, but the version with supports is mechanically more sturdy. Sanding and Preparations: As mentioned earlier, sanding parts with 240 grid wet sandpaper will give them a nice matte finish (at least with white PLA). If you start with 180 grid, it goes faster. The monitor back needs extra work to bring out its subtle curve, while the smaller parts require light sanding. Painting: Adding opaque paint is necessary since PLA can be translucent or show LED light behind it in dark rooms. Inlays will shine through where they have tabs; white paint in notches and on tabs fixes this issue (see picture). Add a layer of black paint after two layers of white for maximum effect, or fill LED pinholes with paint to improve the look. Gluing the parts: Several parts require gluing depending on your printed model. The front case consists of two snugly fitting parts that need glue on tabs and the upper flat part. Remember to add glue to the top where there are no tabs. Once dry, attach them to the back of the case, then give a light sanding for alignment. Optional: you can glue the monitor spacer to the base or use it with a screw. The captive screw holder needs gluing into the monitor and can be used with a regular or self-securing M4 screw. If you want a closed drive light to work, glue the LED holder to the closed floppy disk. Ensure the back of the floppy is painted sufficiently and includes a colored floppy piece (I use red). The removable floppy in the model is not possible. Electronics: //TODO: make pretty pictures of connected ESP boards