Mini FPV-Rover Remix

thingiverse

I remixed some of the parts from Markus_P's Mini FPV Rover, as I was having trouble getting the tracks to fit. To solve this issue, I created track frames where the front cog can be slid forward or backward at any time by loosening a M3 bolt that goes through the center of the cog. I used remixed tracks from Oleg_Menshikov and adjusted them to fit with my cogs. Additionally, I added bevels to the insides so the tracks wouldn't try to run out on the cogs. To print the frames, I recommend a resolution of 0.16mm, which is what I used for my .4 nozzle. The tracks print much better at 0.12mm and are a bit slow, while the COG also prints well at this resolution, as does the slider shaft. Assembling the rover requires evenly pressing two bearings into the front cog and then pushing the slider in along with them. Space them out evenly, and they should fit snugly without slipping once in place. Then, simply insert the cog into the front, threading a M3 bolt through the middle of the slider. The rear cog assembles similarly to the original rover but requires an additional 1mm thickness on the outside frame to accommodate the front cog assembly. Don't forget to print two of everything to complete both sides. To secure the head of the bolt and nut, I counter-sunk them slightly to hide a bit and prevent the nut from spinning when adjusting tension. I used Tinkercad for all my remixing, as that's the software I have available at the moment. This was my first time remixing a design, and it took me some time, but it was a great learning experience. I'll add more photos when I can and appreciate any comments or suggestions you may have. Update: I added 0.1mm to the outer track frame because the slider was a bit tight. I'm going to replace the rear and front cogs with ones that fit better on the tracks, and the rear cog will feature a solid shaft through it, which requires drilling with a 3mm bit. For best results, use a drill press for a straight hole. Update: I replaced the cogs and added a split slider to the front cog. The motor wobble has been significantly reduced thus far, but it still requires some adjustments. To assemble, shave down the set screw to clear the bearing, then snug it up to the flat spot on the motor shaft and back off slightly for easy insertion and removal. Update: I printed the rear cog insert at 100% infill and 0.12mm quality because it needs to be drilled with a 3mm bit. Also, I removed the counter-sunk on the outside track frame as the bolt was crushing the filament due to its thinness. Update: I got everything working smoothly by drilling out the rear cog shaft with a 3mm bit using a pin vice. Then, drill a hole across for the 3mm grub screw carefully, and shorten it slightly if needed to prevent snagging on the bearing. Snug up the grub screw, then barely back it off so that the motor will slide in and out. Update: I included an optional rear shaft with holes printed for the grub screw but couldn't get them to work without wobble. If you try drilling them by hand, perhaps that will be successful. There's a hole on each end, but only one is used. Update 2-13-2019: I added files so you can add the slider to the original design. This simply moves one bearing inside the front cog and adds a front shaft going through the bearing. Then, replace the bearing holes in the track frames with inserts that have slots for the front assembly to slide forward and backward. To assemble the add-on version, glue the inserts where the bearings were, then trim out the thin layer on the outer track frame to match the oval slide slot using an exacto knife or similar tool. Be careful not to damage the track frames. The files needed to add the slider start with "add on". Print one cog, one shaft, and two slider inserts per side for this version. 3-6-2019: I added a Motor Clip File.