Micro USB Media Controller (Arduino Pro Micro)

cults3d

Small, affordable media controller that plugs into your computer, phone, tablet or any other device that supports USB media controls. I've personally tested it with Windows 10 and Android 6, so feel free to test it with anything else and share your results. Functions: Knob: Turn to adjust volume, press to mute Big button: Play/pause Small buttons: Previous & Next track These can all be customized in the included source code. Uses a standard Micro USB cable. Basic soldering skills are required, but nothing fancy. Hardware: Arduino Pro Micro 5V/16Mhz, priced at 3-10 euros KY-040 rotary encoder, priced at 1-5 euros Standard PC power/reset buttons salvaged from any computer case made in the last 25 years. Or pick up for pennies online. Note: Price range varies greatly between eBay/Ali and local stores. But even at its most expensive, it shouldn't be more than 15 euros combined. I opted for the latter instead of waiting several weeks just to save a few euros. To make the controller as compact as possible and minimize soldering, straighten the pins on the rotary encoder if angled and place the Pro Micro upside down in the corresponding spot (pinout included in source code). Place them in position at the Bottom print and ensure they are fully seated before beginning soldering. Once done, you can snip off the extending length of the pins. Depending on your printer's overhang capabilities, you may need supports for the bottom part. Make sure to preview the supports in your slicer and verify that the button bridges are supported. You may have to rotate the part 45 degrees in your slicer for them to actually appear. Everything should be a press fit, but since this is based on open hardware, different manufacturers may have slightly different tolerances. To tackle common differences: There are sometimes tiny bumps or imperfections on the side of the boards, which is a result of the manufacturing process. This can leave the boards slightly too big to press in place. If that happens, sand down the edges with a small file - a cheap paper nail file works well. If you're able to pull the encoder shaft up a millimeter or so when the shell is in place, add a thin washer between them. If you don't have one in the right thickness, you can even make a few out of stiff paper. These will only be used as standoffs and will not be rotated. If you want to permanently seal the Bottom and Shell parts (after testing that it's fully functioning), apply some glue/silicone/sugru on the outside walls of the Bottom part, then place the shell on it and clamp in place until dry. You may also want to do this with the pushbuttons if they tend to come up.