MGN12 3030 ZARIBO 320

thingiverse

Here is a variant for MGN12 Rails for the ZARIBO with 3030 profiles. The print orientation is different in some places from the originals, please check the picture. I've included the guidance for 10mm rods as well, so if something goes wrong with Z or X, you can easily switch back to the original setting. You'll need various lengths of M3 screws, including those with a countersink, but these should be in your basic toolkit. Additionally, you'll need four pieces of square washers (low form) - M3 -, and M6 and M3 socket head screws. I found the M3 socket head screws at https://www.hug-technik.com/shop/product_info.php?info=p721647_nutenstein-einschwenkbar-m--steg-typ-i--nut-8--m3.html. The rails should have the following length and hole spacings for a 320mm printer: X = 2 x 345mm, T1: 10mm Y = 2 x 370mm, T1: 10mm Z = 2 x 430mm, T1: 15mm (420mm: 530mm) 4x ball-bearing blocks, standard 3x ball-bearing blocks, long All the threaded holes were made with RUTHEX soldering sleeves. Simply place one in each of the 4mm holes, carefully and slowly, easiest with a 220°C hot air gun. In my opinion, these from RUTHEX hold up best. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07YSRGZ9N/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yCklEb8J0J2TH The alignment is actually very simple. If you're making Y, just build one side with a bearing and leave the other guide in place. Build the rail and it will align itself before tightening the screws. Tighten evenly and carefully, then do the same for the other side. When attaching the top plate, be careful not to twist it or it may become misaligned. For X, you'll need four M3 flathead screws, square. Place the rails in, then insert the M3 screw through the rail but don't tighten yet. Z: Screw in, but don't tighten yet. Then start on one side to align the profile evenly, and do the same for the other side. Place X on top and align it with Z's bearings, attach the bearing block to X, then attach the rails from X and test them. Worked perfectly for me. Then proceed as usual. Be careful with the cables; they're very delicate but work well with a bit of patience and without force. Edit: I've added the STL file for Slic3r in the background setting. It works under print settings --> bed contour setup. Cable management without sensor cable holders was unnecessary.