![Mechboard64 Plate [CORRECTED]](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/0f/49/24/e4/7d/large_display_03ec4188-0368-4f42-8fa1-e14edbb1a852.png)
Mechboard64 Plate [CORRECTED]
thingiverse
MODEL STILL IN PROGRESS, RIDGIDITY SUPPORTS CURRENTLY BEING DESIGNED, WILL BE UPDATED HERE WHEN COMPLETED Corrected the model to eliminate the odd alignment issues between the segments, and a couple between the key apertures themselves too. Also adjusted the switch apertures to be printer-accurate. I don't care how "perfect" your printer is adjusted; filament print diameter is going to take up some of the hole space. That's simply how FDM printing works. Accordingly, if you print at .2mm resolution, then .2mm is going to need to be accounted for with holes that have a precise size requirement. Therefore, since Cherry switch apertures are supposed to be 14mm, these are now 14.2mm, up from 13.998mm. The MechBoard64 kit also includes little 3mm spacers to put the PCB at the right distance from the top of the plate, but I said "screw that" too and added 3mm spacing across the underside of the plate. This will have the added advantage of providing support for the PCB across the entire plate, not just where the mounting screws are, and not relying on the soldered switches entirely either. Haven't printed it yet, but I have designed and printed other models using these particular aperture dimensions, and the Cherry switches snap in just fine. By the way, these don't have to be super-tight friction fit either, because the PCB that the switches are soldered to is itself screwed down to the mount frame. There is also a .2mm gap between each of the plates and the glue tangs, and again, this is by design. The completed prints should be almost a perfect friction fit together, so by the time the superglue dries, this devil should be the next best thing to a solid piece, with far less sanding and filing required.
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