Mean Well LRS-350 Unhinged MK3+3030+2020+LACK

prusaprinters

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424After deciding to stop bolting inlets to angles and leaving my wires all exposed i found a lack of interoperability and options for proper housings for my LRS-350s. So i figured fastteddy made a nice modular enclosure and posted sauce, I'll just add some more mount points, it'll be EASY! A week and nearly 300 meters of filament in failed attempts later, I'm finally ready to give up and post it. I just pulled random ones from ali express or somewhere out of a box but according to specs it should work with https://www.amazon.com/Willwin-AC250V-IEC320-Terminals-Socket/dp/B078RLN3DQ/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=iec+power+inlet&qid=1614634108&sr=8-20FeaturesIncreased size and support of main mounting foot to allow for scribbling constellations of stars.Added small guidance shelf for bottom of psu.Added 3mm holes to footing inline w/ included oldbear 5mm hole, and inline w/ mk3 extrusion x2 for anyone using those ridiculous 3mm extrusion nuts prusa ships.Added 6mm hole to footing at the perpendicular intersection of standard haribo3030 and mk3 mount point.Added 5mm mount point for bear2.1.Added bottom knockout puck for clearance over back MK3 frame on fake prusas.Removed ziptie mounts because in the way.Added rear inlet hole for wires.Removed bottom vents to make room for 6mm slot inline w/ 3030 extrusion and addition slot for 2020/3030 fringe builds that u can shove even MORE wires through(recommend using washers if you use these to make ur triangle of bolts).Created clearance for most 3030/2020 angles brackets and modified faceplate to match, leaving a slot so you can still use the original faceplate probably. Though you would probably want an extra hole to get both screws in.Modified FRIO's mk3 adapter bracket from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3329838.Curved side vent feature to allow for screws too long for new design to barely clear through FRIO's bracket.Couldn't find bracket for 3030 case since someone keeps deleting, so made my own w/ a fantastic sd card effect on the side using fastteddys profile as a guide for easymode.Decided to shove a hole in the back to add rear inlet after printing most of my original modifications already.....Decided I didn't want to rescrew into wood each time I converted over to a LACK enclosure, so designed a series of puck-like fittings to work w/ m4 wood screws, #8 wood screws, and if you're careful w/ the threading into plastic #8 drywall screws and then bolt into place with your choice of stars from the constellation puck and a m3x? screw on the minipuck. Of course. you could just bolt straight in or use other fittings, but i wanted one that slid in.Figured some people may not want rear inlet, so made a little bear insert to boop into it. Further attempts at refining the boopit bear were unfruitful.` =Included all source so u can make whatever holes u need in the faceplate or edit the mangled mess i made of fastteddys clean files for w/e reason, a hacked up untested version w/ no rear inlet, and modified 2020 mounts for T-slot.Sketch from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4283753 should also be on the faceplate, but if your going to use that style of outlet note theyre designed for very specific wall thickness and i have 3 all with totally different depths, so make sure you double check the fit.Printed with prusaslicer .2mm quality setting at 15% infill w/ petg. Upping walls and infill on pucks and hangers may be a good idea, but I didnt bother. Paint on support for rear inlet makes it cleaner, but deburring tool on overhang works fine too. Naturally for orientation, place w/ the designer's tears falling downwards and 45 degree angles doing battle with gravity.Category: 3D Printer Accessories