Master Sword with interchangeable blades

thingiverse

Update: I have uploaded 2 new versions of the pommel top after feedback. The regular pommel top is 0.2mm bigger diameter then the grip and the looser version is 0.4mm larger. Update 2: I have added a purified cross guard and a blank blade base from Skyward Sword. The fourth form of the Goddess sword before becoming the Master Sword. I have also included a separated jewel for seperate printing since the jewel in this form is an amber color. Yet another master sword. I know. This one was a fun project to see if I could make a master sword that would could be all encompassing for its appearances in Tears of the Kingdom. The party trick being that the center jewel acts as a locking peg for which ever blade is inserted. It's modeled with a tight tolerance so that it will friction fit in. Just press the center of the jewel and the peg will slide out. This allows the blade to be removed. My idea was that this would be more convenient then printing and finishing 3 different hilts for each blade. Storage should be easier as well. Plus its just cool. Glue and supports will be necessary for some parts. I have kept tolerances tight on some parts to help with friction fitting. I've found the blades need a couple insertions before it becomes easier. I figured this was better then a wobbly blade. Video Demo =================== <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AtKNojgwpLE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe> Parts ==================== - Blades - Each blade is designed to be printed upright on the plate. You will need 2 center portions to make a full length blade. I have included pegs which should be glued to join all the sections. I suggest thick walls. I print with 5 walls for good measure. Really helps with flex. Use supports for the peg holes. On the restored blade, I did not include a tip since it is the same as the original blade. - Cross guard - I have sliced this 2 ways: - - Sideways for more vertical printing. Excellent cooling is a must. I had very slight sagging towards the top of mine due to the sharp angles of the tips. - - Sliced in half for a wider print but easier details if bed adhesion and warping isn't an issue. Supports are a must for both. Focus on the interior portions and tips. - Grip - Simple part. Print with flared portion on the plate. Make sure to glue it with the cutout portion facing forward. Important for the wrap to be aligned with the cross guard. - Wrap - This is was a trickier part for me since it kept coming loose from the bed. It doesn't have a very wide base so bed adhesion is critical. Supports and brims help. Has a built in peg to lock it into the proper orientation. - Jewels and Blade surrounds - Super easy print. Glue peg into jewel with inset on the back. Glue surrounds on cross guard. - Pommel - Two parts for nicer printing. Use grip to help align while gluing halves together. Can remain removable with future upgrades... Conclusion ================= I realize that my corrupted blade doesn't look as nice another one on thingiverse. I am not very good at organic modeling and tried to get it as close as I could with the limitations of Fusion 360. My goal was the swappable blade above all. But I figured a dremel is always an options after the fact. I left grip hollow for possible electronics. My future plan is a swappable translucent blade with an led strip. Maybe use a light saber board with neopixels for lighting effects. Thanks and hope this can be enjoyed.