Master Sword "Stone" Stand

thingiverse

I had already printed a Master Sword and was on the lookout for a stand, so I decided to divide the original model in half and refine its geometry (the top bezel around the hole wasn't centered). The sword recess could have been done better, but I didn't want to spend time on it since it should work. I still need to update the stand and plug, so the plug will lock into the coin bank. I ended up cutting two slots in the bank with my mini files, and I added two notches to the plug using my 3D pen (3Doodler2.0). This should be a relatively simple process; I just need to set aside some time to do this soon. I will update my "cut" Master Sword model with the .x3g file for printing at the scale matching the current stand size. 02FEB16 - Added Revision 3 of the Master Sword stand STL file (resized much larger and hollow with 2mm thick walls for faster printing). I also added a coin-bank version of Revision 3 (slot in back and hole/plug on the bottom). 09FEB16 - Uploaded Revision 5, which should be the final revision. Revisions 3 and 4 weren't modeled as well as they could have been, so I redesigned them again with outstanding results! Sketchup was causing trouble with the Tri-Force geometry in S3D, so I ran these models through Netfabb for repairs. The results are excellent, and I'm printing the coin bank now. I was about to model the Tri-Force symbol separately from the stand and print the tri-force model in place, but then I checked Netfabb basic (I use the client version). For those of you not using Simplify3d.com software, it will save you a lot of time and money - I was able to preview the coin bank model and notice the extra "solid infil layers" that shouldn't have been there, which would have rendered the coin bank and letter opener portions of this model useless. I also included the .x3g file for the Master Sword (1/2 slice) at the proper scale for the stand and coin bank models - I'm not sure if I saved the .STL file at the scaled size, but basically, I placed the master sword slice diagonally across my Duplicator 4 print bed, so any Replicator clone printer should be able to print it just fine. Oh, and I use ABS, so you'll need to adjust the temp if you're using PLA.