Marlin Ramps Firmware For Maker Select V2 / Wanhao Duplicator i3

thingiverse

This is a zipped folder containing marlin firmware for a Maker Select V2, also known as Wanhao Duplicator i3, with ramps gen 1.4 board. Here is the kit I used: https://www.biqu.equipment/products/mks-gen-v1-4-3d-printer-kit-with-mks-gen-v1-4-reprap-control-board-5pcs-tmc2100-driver-8825-a4988-12864-lcd That kit is relatively easy to install. The LCD perfectly replaces the original, and the board can be bolted on using this adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1853712 If you use the firmware I have with the linked kit, your printer should essentially boot up and be ready for use. Minimal wiring is required. I highly recommend getting "dupont connector wires" to make almost all of the wiring plug-and-play. The original stock board on the Maker Select has two plugs for the Z axis motors; however, there is only one plug available on the biqu ramps board. I used dupont connector wires to use the single biqu plug to connect both z-axis motor connectors in series. Alternatively, you can wire them in parallel. If following these directions, the E1 plug will be unused and you'll have one spare unused TMC2100 driver. I recommend uploading the firmware with the LCD unplugged. My LCD had a common issue where the connectors were attached backwards. If yours has this issue, it will just blink (and also prevent a successful firmware upload). It can be resolved by plugging the connector in backwards (tab facing the opposite way). The TMC2100 drivers are amazing. They are massively quieter, smoother, and efficient compared to other options. I highly recommend them. Before installing the TMC2100 drivers, remove the three jumpers that sit underneath them on the biqu board. Additionally, you will need a multimeter to set the vref. Look up how to do it on YouTube; it's simple. I found I needed to set mine to 1.0v. After everything is installed and the firmware is uploaded, boot the printer up. Manually scroll each axis. Make sure when you increase the value for each axis it moves AWAY from the endstop switches. If it is going the wrong way, you can either flip the connector or change the value in the firmware. This is most likely to happen on the extruder. I hope this helps someone. I know when I wanted to upgrade my Maker Select, it was pretty frustrating with all the options and I wished someone had a simple easy-to-follow recipe. NOTE - After getting everything installed, I found there was no access to the SD card. I tried 2 different SD card extender cables but neither worked. I just ended up cutting a hole in the side of the case with a Dremel and sanding the edges smooth. Alternatively, there is a full replacement case designed by someone else: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364807