Mario Item Block Lamp

thingiverse

I wanted to craft a lithopane-style lamp out of the modern Mario Item Block design for my son, but couldn't find a high-quality file that wasn't an older (pre-2000's) Item Block. So using the base I use for my own personalized lithopane lamps, I created my own design in Fusion360. A few other materials are required for this project. This particular model is designed for single-extrusion PLA, as my workspace isn't ventilated and I avoid ABS whenever possible. Because I'm using PLA, I decided to use a G9 socket base, found in a 10-pack (recommended). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015TJFCPO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or as a single unit: https://www.amazon.com/Socket-TOOGOO-Socket-Ceramic-Light-Holder/dp/B00UBNCGXK/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=g9+socket+cable+lead&qid=1551263509&s=hi&sr=1-10 The bulb needs to be low-temperature to prevent bubbling the PLA over time, so I chose Low Heat Output, 4W, 3000K (WarmWhite) G9 LEDs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2681X3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You'll also need a power cord with a switch, pre-tinned for soldering. I use cords from my local hardware store, but there are several options online. https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Hobbies-Rotary-Switch-Stripped/dp/B00HP8SUUM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1XQ7DK9Z13VDE&keywords=lamp+power+cord&qid=1551264445&s=gateway&sprefix=lamp+pow%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-6 The only real assembly required is connecting the G9 socket to the base with two screws. For this, I use a 2/56 thread to pre-thread the plastic holes, then use two 2/56 3/4" screws to assemble. Once printed, I applied painters tape around all edges and got painting. A quality sand, two coats of primer, another sand, two coats of White Acrylic paint, one coat of Mod Podge matte waterbase sealer, and two coats of Mod Podge clear acrylic sealer spray were applied. This might seem like a lot of work, but the finished product is scratchproof, waterproof, very clean, and has the same texture and shine as the printed plastic. Once printed and painted, the lid should snap into place without glue or screws required. The light is a dim atmosphere/reading light, so I included two lids: one closed and one open to let a little more light escape if desired. Safely solder together your socket and power cord, test with a bulb to make sure it works, then wrap in electrical tape, screw the socket to the frame, and you're done! I welcome any feedback or questions regarding my designs! Please let me know what you think.