Mandalorian Helmet - Repaired and Split

thingiverse

Edit 2: Sliced the top piece into two parts so that a big chunk of it can be printed without any need for supports leaving the fairly shallow piece that some printers may struggle with droop to print to print separately to save a crap load of support material. There would now be 3 pieces, the original bottom, the middle and the toptwo to complete the helmet. Edit: I'm not sure there was anything wrong with the original bottom piece but when I printed it I got a layer shift about an hour into the print so I went back to it, re-welded all the vertices with a very minor range which cut the number of faces down. The second print made it past the layer shift. I've removed the original piece and replaced it with a V2 version. I'm not sure these aren't just random hiccups in the slicer I use (Simpifly3D) which is I know an old one that hasn't been updated in years but it 'just works' for me and produces extremely clean prints so I've never looked at anything else. DISCLAIMER: This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4401649/. The Remix functions seem to be broken so I'm attributing it here. I have not printed this yet so YMMV, all I can say is there are not STL errors on the files I've modified and uploaded so slicers should be happy with it. I took the original and repaired the STL errors in it, not many but it was preventing me from doing a clean boolean on it. I can't print the full helm on my printer it's about an 1" too high so I needed to cut it up. I took the full helmet after I repaired it so it was fully manifold and sliced it horizontally at the spot that made the most sense to me to give the cleanest print. In order to make it 'flat' on the bed side I did have to make minor adjustments of some vertices, flattening them so they lay in the same horizontal plane and moved the back detail up slightly and then flattening it a bit. Then go back and fix STL errors incurred by this and the boolean operations. As a result neither is 100% accurate to the original source file. Call them 99.9% accurate to the original. The top will need, IMO, a little smoothing of the visor opening / edges that sits on the base to round it back over from where I flattened it to get it back to the original shape. Tools used - Studio Max 2020.