Makibox Z wobble fix - Uses 3D Printed parts, and existing metal

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I wanted to come up with a solution to the Makibox Z wobble that plagues every printer they make - what you get for $300. After analyzing their design, I discovered that the Y axis end supports were redundant, allowing me to remove one of the metal rods and put it to use. By using this rod and a few 3D printed parts, I significantly reduced the wobble in the X axis caused by the Z lead screw moving the table in and out. Pictures show the final assembly, with a Before and After shot, the After on the left and before on the right. Large improvements can be seen in the X axis wobble, and some slight improvement in the Y axis too. I've gone through several iterations of the Z_stabalizer_Table part, and will probably change it again soon. V7 uses a gentle clamping force with friction to hold onto the table, which is likely to lose its strength over repeated heat-cooling cycles, but has the best sliding along the rail. Once it loses its strength, it should be perfect for sliding and can be held to the table with some high temperature silicone or similar non-rigid adhesive. V6 didn't clamp at all, but held rigidly and had more friction than I'd like. Using a grease on this rod would probably allow V6 to work just as well. I've uploaded IGES versions of the final parts for others to import and modify, since the original parts were designed in Solidworks 2014. Instructions: Print all parts on a Replicator 2 with 0.1mm layers, 3 shells, and 30% infill. First, remove the panel at the end of the printer so you can see the far end of the guide rails at the end of the Y axis. Remove the two small grey plastic cylindrical end guides at the end of the rods, the plastic and metal end clamp that span the two Y axis rods, and the metal rods used for the Y axis support. Second, print the pom_support_rod_endguide and place one of the metal rods into it. Slip this printed part onto the two Y axis rods, placing the metal rod into the lower slot where it was removed from. Third, print the Z_stabalizer_Base and place it on the base of the printer so that it straddles the nub used for screwing in the end panel. Fourth, print the Z_stabalizer_Top and insert it around the top X axis support rail at the mid point of the printer - not right at the end where it enters the plastic support part. You need some extra clearance to insert it. Then slide it down until it goes onto the grey plastic corner support part, flexing the arm slightly so that it can fit around and snap into the upper groove where the metal rod previously sat. Fifth, insert the spare metal rod into the top rail and push it directly down until it enters the bottom support printed part. You can alternatively snap it in, but it's just as easy to slide it in. Sixth, attach the Z_stabalizer_Table part to the table and then snap it onto the metal rod. V7 seemed to slide the best because it wasn't over constraining the system, however I'm not sure if it will hold rigidly enough over time since it's in constant contact with the heated bed. V6 constrains the system perfectly, but results in too much friction while it slides which could cause some problems. After printing with it, I found that the original strength of the V7 clamp was not what it used to be, but it still holds it tight enough. I'll be putting some high temperature gasket silicone to hold it in position, as it looks like it has slightly deformed where the pressure was greatest, but it now slides with no friction at all. This was printed in Makerbot PLA and the table was 110C for the first layer and warm-up, then 90C for the rest of the printing which caused the slight deformation. It still works without the silicone, but I think that will provide rigidity when printing, but flexibility with heating and cooling cycling. Super glue (CA) would hold initially, but through thermal cycling, it would break its bond, so something with some flex would be better.