MakerFarm i3v Z-Axis Upgrade

thingiverse

Welcome to my first post! I've got more where this came from when I finally find some time to revise these designs and write more summaries. The updated right side piece has just been posted, but it hasn't been tested for fitment yet. If you print it, use caution - I'll be printing and testing it within the next couple of days. I designed this upgrade using a schematic derived from Colin's laser cutter file, which someone took the time to import from the Prusa CAD file for the I3V12" printer. So thanks to whoever was responsible for saving me some measuring! The first time I printed this (and probably the last), I had to remove material from the posts with a Dremel to make them fit in my frame. Even so, I had to press them in pretty hard. To save you some elbow grease and time, I removed 0.5mm from each interference to help the tolerance, but you might still have to use a rotary tool to take away some material. This happened because I didn't account for the laser cutter kerf from the original design. Once installed, my Z-axis lead screws kept much better synchronization than they ever did with the original threaded rod. You'll notice that I don't have an M3 installed on the right side Z motor mount - I had to melt and hammer the plastics together for mine, and the holes were undersized. You shouldn't have to do this as I adjusted the hole size and tabs. Mine is installed on the I3V 10" printer, but it should work with many Maker Farm kits. You'll need to print four side supports, two flanges, and two motor mounts. Required hardware includes: - Lead Screw (I used this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017AR5QBS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with 400 Zsteps/mm - 5mm to 8mm Coupler (I used this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHTVOEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - The same hardware you're using for the original stepper motor mounts and supports How I designed this upgrade: Uncouple the X axis from the threaded rod. Remove the threaded rod and nuts. Carefully support the X carriage with something to keep it from falling (there's nothing supporting the carriage, so if it falls, it'll likely crash into the print bed and do some damage). Unscrew the stepper motors, then the old stepper motor mounts and supports. Next, install the new stepper motor mounts and supports. Reinstall the stepper motors using all the same hardware. Install both couplers to the motors' driveshafts. Remove the X-axis idler and sand down one side (wait for the redesign). Then remove the old Z-axis brackets from the X-axis rails. Shorten those bolts to about 8-9mm. Press the new Z-axis mounts into the front of the X-axis rails, making sure they're centered over the stepper motor driveshaft as possible (otherwise you'll create unnecessary forces that will lead to wear and wobble). Put one T-nut on top and one on bottom for each side and install the shortened bolts. If they don't thread all the way down, they're not short enough, and the lead screw won't go through its nut. Take the four M3 nuts and bolts originally holding the M5 nut in place for the threaded rod and install the new M8 ACME style nuts into the new brackets (2 per side). The bracket should sit above the nut on the offset side. You can either use them as studs or nut and bolt them in like I did. Once you're here, make sure that the bolts holding the M8 nuts to the v-rail are just tight enough to allow them to move back and forth (for alignment) but let the lead screw pass through the nut without effort. Don't force anything - this is so you can align the lead screw with the coupler and Z-axis v-rail as best as possible. Once you get it all aligned, tighten up those bolts, the X-idler bearing, and anything else that needs to be (I had to take ~2 teeth out of my X-belt). Print settings: - I printed in PLA. - I used 4 perimeters and 4 top layers. - Hexagon infill (make sure the side support tabs have infill in them - if they're hollow, I recommend adjusting the infill until they're not). - Brackets require bridging or supports, but I recommend bridging if you can.