Magnetic paddle upgrade for Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro Wheel with adjustable threshold and throw

thingiverse

This is one of the best upgrades I've done. It improves the feel/action 100% giving you crispy flappy paddles instead of the mushy vague ones that come with the cheap GT wheel. And you can adjust it to your liking and play style, heavy or light action, long or short throw. Works with either plastic or metal quick release. This is an inexpensive build if you have the parts, just a few dollars. But you may need to buy in bulk so group with friends to build several at once. Skip to the HOW TO if you don't care for background. I didn't like the feel the the stock paddles and saw that the higher end wheels have magnetic paddles. I knew I had to have this. So I designed a set using two magnets because that's what I had in my junk box. It was WAY better but I didn't love it. The action was too heavy which made double shifts slow. Also the throw was still too long so I designed in an adjuster to move the contact point. Awesome! But also needed to offset magnets to reduce release threshold and so second adjuster. Very close, but two problems. The adjusters added too much complexity and some potential slop. The dual magnet feel was off. I tried smaller magnets but still not right. I read up on this and realized what I need is magnet + metal slug combo. The peak pull force is nearly the same but the drop-off is more exponential with the metal as the atomic grains relax out of the magnetic field. So I wanted to combine the two degrees of freedom into one mechanism, keep it simple, and use a ferrous metal solution. I brainstormed on this for a long time, staring at options at the hardware store. Finally one night the solution came to me in a fever dream. It is so simple and works great. ###HOW TO MAKE: **materials needed**: + 2x Neodymium disc magnets, either 3/8 x 1/8 in. or 10 x 3 mm [example 3/8](https://totalelement.com/collections/disc-magnets/products/3-8-x-1-8-inch-neodymium-rare-earth-disc-magnets-n48-30-pack) I would get N42 since I find N48 too strong for this application + 2x knurled thumbscrews with M3 x 10mm screw (galvanized, NOT stainless steel!) [amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C27F8QB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) + 4x M3 hex nuts + 2x M3 washers (optional) + Glue (SuperGlue Gel/CA or similar for attaching magnet) + 3M VHB 4905 1/2" or 1/4" tape (4910 also works) + Isopropyl alcohol **tools needed:** + 4mm hex wrench (I think came with Fanatec) + 5.5mm crescent wrench + X-acto/craft/hobby knife + scissors + small file set (optional) **Printed parts:** Use a rigid filament like PLA. I used HTPET. You can probably also get away with PETG, ABS, PC, or Nylon but may need some post-processing clean up. Print 2x magnet clips, use either magnet_38 if you have 3/8 in. magnets, or magnet_10 if you have 10mm magnets Print 1x RIGHT stand and 1x RIGHT **mirrored in slicer** to make a LEFT stand I used 3 perimeters and 20% inflll. No supports or any other changes needed. **Preparation:** Clean up any strings and burrs of printed parts with hobby knife. First make sure the M3 hex nut can slide all the way down into slot in slug stands. I attached nut to thumb screw and pressed it down. In PLA this worked right off the printer, but with HTPET I had to clean up slot first with small files to achieve full sliding range. Test fit the magnets into the clips. Make sure they fit flush or nearly so. Clean up with knife/files as needed to get fit. There is access hole on back you can use to push the magnet back out with small tool. Use Isopropyl alcohol to clean off magnet, paddle surface and clip bottom. Let dry **Assembly:** Remove wheel from motor base. Remove 3 M5 bolts + washers from right side of quick release. Insert washer and screws into RIGHT stand and make sure they can seat fully. Screw onto quick release ring, snug but not tight. Repeat on left side. Now properly torque all bolts in star pattern. Add drop or two of glue to magnet cup in clip. Watch that glue doesn't pour out of access hole, keep tipped up. Insert magnet and then turn over and press down firmly on flat surface to set magnet. Allow to dry. Cut 28mm (1 1/8 in) strip of 3M tape and attach to bottom of clip. Use two strips if using 1/4" tape like I did. Leave red backing on for now. See photo. Repeat for second clip. Important: This tape is STRONG. First test fit clip on paddle aligning with the slug stand. See how this fits and how you need to move paddle to make room. You will NOT be able to slide it around to adjust so make sure you are ready. See photos of final assembly. Use hobby knife to catch edge of red tap backing and remove. Press clip firmly onto paddle, aligned with stand. See photos. The last step is easiest to do by first putting wheel back onto motor base. Rotate so one paddle is pointing up to ceiling. Add nut + washer + nut to thumb screw (see photo). Set center nut to middle of screw to about equal threads on both sides. Hold down paddle to keep magnet away and slide center nut into stand slot and slide all the way down. Tighten thumb screw all the way in (not tight). Tighten rear nut with wrench (don't over tighten). This setting is the longest throw, heaviest threshold. Try out and see what you think. **Adjusting:** You have two degrees of freedom. + Turn the thumb screw in/out to move contact point which changes throw range. + Slide the thumb screw up/down to increase/decrease overlap with magnet to change threshold (pull force) from heavy to light. Threshold: loosen rear nut while holding thumb screw to keep it from turning. Press down paddle to release magnet. Pull/push thumb screw to raise or lower. Raising can be tight and I used wrench on rear nut and hooked small hex wrench under thumb nut to pull both ends easier. Release paddle first, then hold thumb nut to keep from turning while tightening rear nut. Throw: loosen rear nut with wrench. Press down paddle to release magnet. Turn thumb screw counter-clockwise to reduce throw, clockwise to increase throw. Release paddle first, then hold thumb nut to keep from turning while tightening rear nut. For _minimum_ throw: Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the thumb screw. While rear nut is still loose, very slowly increase pressure on paddle with your fingers like you are shifting very very slow. There will be a little play in the screw so paddle with move a tiny bit before magnet lets go. If you hear the microswitch click then go to next step, otherwise unscrew thumb screw another half turn and try again. Once you hear the switch, tighten (clockwise) the thumb screw 1/2 to 1 full turn and tighten rear nut. Double check that you are unable to hear switch click before magnet release when slowly increasing paddle pressure. Paddle action should be basically binary so no false shifts. This will be the shortest reliable throw. For _lightest_ action, i.e. zero: you can just skip the magnet altogether and only use the thumb screw to adjust the throw. Pro tip: to remove glued-in magnet, you can thread a bare thumb screw into the hole on the back of the clip and tighten to pop out magnet from behind.