Magnetic build plate and bed leveling object

thingiverse

DIY Magnetic Build Plate Update February 15, 2018: I am now using an Additional BuildTak FlexPlate with PEI mounted on it. The original magnetic sheets on the build plate remain intact, and it holds great without any horizontal slippage. However, when I printed a large box with thick walls that took up almost the entire build area, I needed to add clips to prevent the print from lifting the corner of the flexplate. There is no problem with normal prints, but clips are necessary when there's potential for warping close to the edges of the magnetic plate. So, here is my final material list and I don't anticipate any more changes: 1) Additional BuildTak FlexPlate (https://www.buildtak.com/product/flexplate/) 2) Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 12" x 12" 1 mm (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH) 3) Corneria 10 Magnetic Sheets Adhesive 20 Mil Magnet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XNAHMC) If the Amazon links don't work, copy the link text and paste it in your browser or search for the descriptive text. Thingiverse is currently doing something to the links, so they may not take you directly to the product page. Update December 18, 2017: I tested a large print, 260 x 295mm, with the PEI and it worked well. Once the magnetic PEI was lifted from the build plate, the part just peeled off. The corner started to separate between the magnetic sheets, so I added a clip. For large prints close to the corners, using clips is recommended. https://youtu.be/x4u3nnKkihU Update November 29, 2017: I've upgraded my build material to use PEI, and it works great. It lets me print PLA and ABS without glue stick or hair spray, and the prints are easy to remove when completed. This PEI is 1mm thin and perfect for using with magnetic sheets. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH/. I tried using a 12 x 24 x 30mil magnetic sheet cut in half, hoping to avoid piecing the 8x10 material I used before. However, the magnetic strength was poor and the adhesive was weak, so I went back to using the same magnetic sheets, pieced together. The video of this can be found at: https://youtu.be/S6XliO3rpnk Original Post, November 8, 2017: I have a Maghold system on my QIDI Tech 1 and love it. I wanted something similar for my new CR-10S, so I decided to make my own using the Athorbot build surface (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G) and adhesive magnetic sheets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XNAHMC). Most build surfaces and magnetic sheets should work fine. I also got a sheet of 0.03" polycarbonate (lexan) in case I needed more stiffening, but the mag sheets attached directly to the build surface seem to work just fine. I ditched the glass plate that came with the CR-10S and put the mag sheet directly on the aluminum bed. The bed seems to be a bit flatter without the extra weight of the glass bed. The glass plate weighs 919g, while the build surface with mag sheet weighs only 237g. I use a coat of glue stick or hair spray to ensure the prints stick nicely. I've been using this for a few days and really like it. I'm using it with a bed temperature of 60C and don't know how well it'll hold up for high bed temps. Make sure the magnetic surfaces align the same way - if you look carefully at the magnetic side of the sheet, you should see some regular linear pattern. This pattern should go the same way on both the bed and the build surface for all pieces. The bed leveling objects make it easy to fine-tune bed leveling. The cylinder is 25mm diameter with 1.6mm wall thickness and 0.2mm height, so you can check adhesion and fill for the first layer of your 3D printer. I create five objects in my slicer, one for each of the leveling screws and one in the center of the Creality 10S 3D printer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGxUAbYhKrc&feature=youtu.be