Macrosniper camera grip

prusaprinters

This rifle-style camera grip allows you a strong, two-handed grip to keep your long lenses under control.Two microswitches in the trigger assembly support a two-stage half- and full-press action for the camera's shutter release.I'm using it for macro photography, and my setup allows me to adjust my magnification between 1x-5x! I've designed it to suit my exact camera and extension tube, so please see details below. You will need to adapt it for other systems.This grip has increased my keeper rate markedly because I can hold the lens steadier and with less fatigue on my arms. In particular it allows my right hand, which would normally just be operating the camera, to share a lot of the load.Slicing instructions are based on PrusaSlicer 2.1.My complete Fusion 360 project has been included so you can customise this as you need - check out the "Macrosniper assembly v3.f3z" file.<h3>Bill of materials</h3>The camera equipment the grip is designed for<ul><li>Canon 5D III</li><li><a href="https://www.photoreview.com.au/reviews/lenses/full-frame/sigma-180mm-f35-apo-ex-dg-hsm-macro-lens/">Sigma 180mm f/3.5 D APO DG Macro</a></li><li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3761957">Jumbo 300mm Canon extension tube with autofocus</a> designed by me and also available on Thingiverse</li></ul>Different cameras and lenses will require their own custom mounts for the top of the rail.Rail and accessories<ul><li><a href="https://www.tnutz.com/product/ex-1010-black/">T-nutz EX-1010-Black extrusion</a> at 18 inches (457.2mm) long. No machining required.</li><li><a href="https://www.tnutz.com/product/st-010/?attribute_pa_thread-size=%25c2%25bc-20">T-nutz 10 series T nuts 1/4"-20</a> x 10 pieces. Get 12 just in case you come up with another accessory you want to mount!</li></ul>Fasteners<ul><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/97763A262">1/4"-20 x 3/8" length pan/button head screw</a> x 11 pieces. These must have a hex socket, so that an allen key can be used to tighten them (a regular screwdriver won't fit in some of the places it needs to go).</li><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/97149a100">1/4"-20 hex nut</a> x 3 pieces</li><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/94444a100">Hex-head 1/4"-20 bolt x 1/2"</a> x 2 pieces</li><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/97763a814">M3 x 10mm screw</a> x 8 pieces</li><li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000027708283.html">M2.3 self-tapping screw x 10mm</a> x 4 pieces. Note that M2.2 or M2.5 are not acceptable.</li><li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000005398105.html">M2.5 x 5mm threaded insert</a> x 2 pieces</li><li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32966917947.html">M2.5 x 6mm machine screw</a> x 2 pieces</li><li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33050913902.html">0.6x5x20mm spring</a> x 1 piece</li></ul>Electronics<ul><li><a href="https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/653-SS-5GL13-3">Omron SS-5GL13-3 microswitch with simulated roller lever</a> x 2 pieces. You can substitute a different terminal style of this switch but you may have to trim its terminals to fit.</li><li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962241811.html">Canon N3 to 3.5mm stereo plug cable</a> x 1 piece - This listing calls the cable "3.5mm C3"</li><li><a href="https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/806-STPX-3501-3C-1">Kycon STPX-3501-3C-1 3.5mm stereo jack</a> x 1 piece</li><li>Thin solid-core wire (I used <a href="https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/801-R28BLK">28 AWG Kynar</a>). Stranded wire will be a complete pain in the ass to use.</li></ul>Flash and accessories<ul><li>Canon MT-24EX twin flash</li><li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3844481">Diffusers for MT-24EX</a> - designed by me and also on Thingiverse</li><li>Loc-Line #51895 (1/2" Fixed Mount, pack of 2) - <a href="https://www.loc-line.com/product/51895-12-fixed-mount-pack-of-2/">Loc-line</a>, Amazon.com</li><li>Loc-Line #51801 (5.5" length Loc-Line pack of 2) - get 3 packs, 2.75 feet total - <a href="https://www.loc-line.com/product/51801-12-hose-segment-pack-pack-of-2/">Loc-line</a>, Amazon.com. If you need this in black you can also buy it as the Wimblerly Plamp II extension PP-222</li><li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3785376">MT-24EX to 1/2" Loc-Line connector</a> - designed by me and also on Thingiverse</li><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/97763a350">1/4"-20 x 2 1/2" length pan/button head screw</a> x 1 piece</li><li><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/97763a265">1/4"-20 x 3/4" length pan/button head screw</a> x 2 pieces</li></ul>FilamentI printed mine using <a href="https://www.filament-pm.com/">Plasty Mladeč PLA</a> but PETG should also work fine. Definitely consider using bright colours so it ends up looking less like a gun, and consider a bright-orange filament for the tip mandatory.Flexible filament is required for the ring clamp and the hand grip. I used Flexfill 98A.<h3>Printing the pieces</h3>Extension tube clamp ringPrint "Extension tube clamp - Outer" in PLA/PETG at 0.2mm layer height, infill 10% grid. Two 1/4"-20 hex nuts need to be inserted during the print, so add a colour change at the top of each of the two nut pockets (20.8mm and 21.8mm). The printer will stop during printing at these points and ask for a filament swap, you can insert the nuts before completing the swap and telling it to resume the print. Ensure the nuts sit below the printed surface, or else the nozzle could collide with them on the next layer!Print "Extension tube clamp - Rubber liner" in 98A Flexfill (or similar flexible filament) at 0.2mm layer height.Glue the flexible liner inside the outer ring with some cyanoacrylate (super glue), I used "medium CA". You can clamp it around a suitable tube to hold it in place while the glue sets.Rail handleThis is the handle for your off-hand at the far end of the rail.For "Rail handle.stl", set layer height to 0.2mm, enable supports from buildplate only, set infill to 10% grid. Add a support blocker cube that passes through both sets of locking fins (that look like the aperture science logo) to keep supports away from these features. See below for what this should look like when properly sliced.It's tempting to print it without supports with the flat base against the buildplate instead, but this will make the stalk weaker and it'll snap in half when you use it! This is because the tiny vertical cross section will increase the stress on the weaker interlayer bonds.Print "Rail handle grip rubber - Left" (and right) in Flexfill 98A at 0.1mm layer height and 10% grid infill. I reduced "top layers" from 9 to 8 and "bottom layers" from 7 to 3.<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/1eb4a06d-8f24-4557-af3b-50b8ec0208a2/rail-handle-sliced.jpeg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2286a6d1bb-cd7e-4704-902f-846f2d63b53d%22%2C%22w%22%3A1024%2C%22h%22%3A804%7D"></figure>Rail handle oriented properly, with supports in the correct placesPush a 1/2" Loc-Line cup onto each set of fins (they should be a snug fit) then secure them together by passing the 1/4"-20 2 1/2" screw from one side to the other and locking it with a hex nut.This design is a little awkward because the grip rubber covers up the screwholes you'll need to access to mount it to the rail, so if you want to glue the two rubber grip halves to the stem, be sure to mount it to the rail first! On one version of this handle I ended up using hot glue to glue both halves to each other, which was successful. Currently I'm just holding them together with a wrap of electrical tape.Buttstock hollowPrint at 0.2mm layer height, 10% grid infill, supports on build plate only.Trigger gripAdd "Trigger grip.stl" to the build plate, then right click it and add "Trigger grip - Screwhole zones.stl" as a Modifier volume. Right click on the screwhole zone and add Infill settings: 100% rectilinear infill.Now use the "place on bed" tool to lie the grip down on its side, making the trigger cavity point at the sky. Add "Trigger grip - Cover.stl" next to it on the plate since it'll use the same settings.Set 0.2mm layer height, 10% grid infill, supports on bed only.Your end result should look like the image below.<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/c21937ef-f8b8-4b58-9562-b63c6e01fa9a/trigger-grip-placed.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22e1045507-7f3b-4c87-9188-d61fcc3f39c3%22%2C%22w%22%3A3412%2C%22h%22%3A2157%7D"></figure>Trigger grip placed with its screwhole modifier zones, trigger cover added too.TriggerPrint at 0.1mm layer height or similar, lying on its side, with supports on build plate only, at 10% grid infill.Tripod mount knobPrint two copies of this STL, at 0.2mm layer height with 10% grid infill.Optionally, scuff up the heads of two hex-head 1/4"-20 1/2" long bolts and use medium CA glue to glue them into the sockets of each knob. This isn't critical because the knob will still be usable if the bolt falls out of it.Tripod mount frame - 30mm high for lensYou'll need to insert the tripod mount knob into this print during printing, so print that first! It will be captive, so can't be inserted after printing.Set layer height 0.2mm, infill 10% grid. Add a colour change at 22mm (just as the walls start to close in for the ceiling to be printed), it should look like this:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/7ba20316-f4ea-418c-99cb-77a9aeacf033/30mm-tripod-mount.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2215e2cdd4-34e5-4a8c-aaba-3e03a09357c1%22%2C%22w%22%3A1200%2C%22h%22%3A978%7D"></figure>During printing, when the printer pauses for the colour change, balance a tripod knob in the middle hole (with the bolt's tail pointing at the bed). Align the two holes that pass through the knob's body with the other two holes in the base.In each of those holes in the knob, put a 1/4"-20 3/8" screw with its tail pointing upwards.Ensure that everything lies below the top printed surface, because otherwise the extruder will crash into it on the next layer!See below for what this should look like before you resume the print.<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/756ff8c1-781d-4b42-8ae3-801e4b16cdb7/knob-insertion.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%223fa3804d-edf9-4776-bdc7-7582a826aed9%22%2C%22w%22%3A3139%2C%22h%22%3A1309%7D"></figure>Knob and two 1/4"-20 3/8" screws inserted during printing, before ceiling is closed in.After printing is complete, you can access the tops of the 3/8" screws through the side which has three holes in it, if the knob is properly rotated.Use an allen key to push the two 3/8" screws through the 0.2mm sacrificial bridge that is blocking their tails, and out of the two holes in the base. The completed part should look like the picture below:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/beb3061f-3ae6-4d7b-9651-8335d9ed4c95/completed-mount.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2280c5655d-c55b-4afb-8906-b292324e4fa4%22%2C%22w%22%3A1459%2C%22h%22%3A1348%7D"></figure>Cross section of tripod mount after assemblyNow print the "Tripod mount frame - 32mm high for camera" STL the same way, it also has its colour change at the 22mm height mark.These two parts have a 2mm height difference so that the extension tube properly aligns with the camera when mounted (and isn't being bent vertically), note that this is a camera- and extension-tube- specific alignment and will need to be tweaked for other setups. The tripod screw also protrudes 2.2mm further on the 30mm lens version for extra thread engagement.The camera's tripod thread socket is shallower than the lens clamps' and could be damaged if mounted on the wrong block.I've included the Fusion 360 project file for this (tripod mount block.f3z) which you can use to customise the height of these blocks to support different cameras and lenses. These parameters were used to create the included STLs:<ul><li>30mm tall lens mount: MountScrewLength = 0.5 inch, MountThreadMaxProtrusion = 7mm, BaseHeight = 7.2mm</li><li>32mm tall camera mount: MountScrewLength = 0.5 inch, MountThreadMaxProtrusion = (3/16)* 1 inch, BaseHeight = 9.2mm</li></ul>TNutz 10 series endcapThis cap will cover up the front end of the rail. Print at 0.2mm layer height in something nice and bright, like <a href="https://www.filament-pm.com/filament-1-75-pla-orange-1-kg/p189">orange PLA</a>, to make it clear that your print is not a weapon.Rainbow camo trim platesIt's important to make it clear to passersby that this is a toy and not a weapon, so I decided to go for a "rainbow camo" design for the sides of the rails. This is a five colour print, but you don't need any special printer accessories like an MMU to print this, just a lot of setup in PrusaSlicer.I've attached the 3MF file I ended up with, so you can use that and skip the rest of this setup if you like!On the Printer Settings tab, go to the General page and set the number of extruders to 5. On the Custom G-Code page, set the "tool change G-code" to "M600 T{next_extruder}".On the Filament Settings page, add a copy of the PLA filament for each of the colours you want to use and set their colours accordingly. This is so you can preview what the design will look like with your colours.In the Print Settings tab, untick "Multiple Extruders -> Wipe Tower -> Enable". Set Infill to 10% rectilinear.Now back on the Plater tab, on the Filament display at the right, assign the PLA filament colours you created to each extruder. The first filament is the one that'll form the main body of the strip, so it should be a nice light colour as a background for the other colours (I used white).Add the "Rainbow camo - Plate.stl" file to the plate. Don't reorient it. Right click it and add the 4 remaining colour STLs to it as Parts.Select each colour STL in turn on the part tree on the right, which will highlight it in the 3D plater view. When the colour is highlighted, right click on that part in the 3D plater view and select Change Extruder to set it to the colour you want. (I found that setting extruders using the Part tree on the right instead of using the 3D view didn't actually cause the colour to change!).Use the vertical split tool to split the model at 250mm, and keep both upper and lower parts. Select the longer of the two strips and split it again, this time at 207.2mm, but only keep the lower part.Use the "place on bed" tool to put the coloured face of both strips onto the bed surface. Then use the rotation tool to rotate each strip by 45 degrees so it can fit diagonally on the bed. Right click each strip and increase instances to 2, so you have 2 of each length of strip. Now drag everything around so it fits on the bed. If you get "toolpath detected outside build volume" errors when you slice, set the Skirt Loops to 0 in the print settings.See below for what you should end up with if you've done everything correctly:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/19af90f1-fb7e-407a-b115-311387839f85/strips-from-above.jpeg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%228a011569-5da8-4fa9-9964-7626542c5907%22%2C%22w%22%3A1600%2C%22h%22%3A1032%7D"></figure>Top view, you're seeing the plain back side of the trim plates<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/5306d15e-a7ab-451c-9212-8a458bb84ce3/strips-from-below.jpeg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22bd3a4e58-dbaa-4955-b90a-69b48ad8174d%22%2C%22w%22%3A1024%2C%22h%22%3A861%7D"></figure>The bottom view reveals the colours underneath.When you print the sliced file, the printer will pause 14 times during the print to have you swap colours. Unfortunately by default the printer won't tell you which colour you should insert next. You can open the gcode file in a text editor to find out the order of the colours though!In the gcode, search for "M600". The first entry you'll find is "M600 T0", which is the prompt for loading filament colour 1 at the very start of the print (it's a 0-based index).The full sequence of colours that my gcode had in it is this, and yours will probably be the same:Layer 1:<ul><li>Colour 1</li><li>Colour 2</li><li>Colour 3</li><li>Colour 4</li><li>Colour 5</li></ul>Layer 2:<ul><li>Colour 1</li><li>Colour 2</li><li>Colour 3</li><li>Colour 4</li></ul>Layer 3:<ul><li>Colour 1</li><li>Colour 2</li><li>Colour 3</li><li>Colour 5</li></ul>Layer 4:<ul><li>Colour 1</li></ul>Another way to solve this conundrum is to add a feature to the printer's firmware to display the number of the next filament that should be inserted on the screen, and <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/pull/2308">I created a patch to achieve that</a> (you'd see "Insert filament 2 and press the knob" etc during the print).After loading a new filament, be sure to have tweezers or similar already ready around the purged filament before clicking "Ok" to confirm the successful load. This'll allow you to grab the string of purged filament off the extruder to avoid it getting baked into your print!M3 T-NutThese nuts will be used instead of metal nuts to attach the rainbow camo trim plate, since strength is not required!Print 8 copies of the STL at 0.1mm layer height, 10% grid infill. You may need to run a screw through the nut once to tidy up the thread before it's ready for use.<h3>Assembly</h3>Trigger electronicsThere are two Omron microswitches to be mounted in the trigger bay, and these will connect through a little channel that snakes its way to the rear of the trigger grip to a 3.5mm stereo jack, see below for an overview:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/26988c90-5031-4c21-9ef7-bc5c09850044/cable-channel.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%223752af20-a5c7-4449-bea5-dc441b5c8100%22%2C%22w%22%3A2720%2C%22h%22%3A1860%7D"></figure>Two Omron switches (yellow) mounted, with cable channel (highlighted) exiting at the top right corner of this trigger bay.<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/8b31b790-f071-46d8-abb5-88b3a6a3f549/jack-location.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22f76faaa3-40ee-418a-ae96-4111f480b45d%22%2C%22w%22%3A2179%2C%22h%22%3A1949%7D"></figure>3.5mm jack is located here at the rear of the gripFirst we'll install the jack. Note that the solder terminals protrude too far out from the jack, so you'll need to bend and trim these to fit. Solder a solid-core wire onto each of the three terminals and feed them through the wire channel at the rear of the jack recess. You'll need to do a lot of wiggling to get the cable to travel all the way through to the trigger assembly.Slide the jack down into its final resting place and secure it with the supplied hex nut.Use a multimeter in continuity or resistance test mode to identify which wire connects to the metal ring of the jack, this is the ground that will be common to both switches. Solder a short wire that joins the two NO terminals of the switches together, then connect one of those to the ground wire.Now we'll identify the two remaining wires. Connect your camera's shutter release adapter cable to the jack and then to your camera's trigger port. Short one of the wires to the ground wire and see what happens - does the camera enter metering mode or does it fire the shutter? The metering mode wire needs to be soldered to the remaining terminal on the top switch, and the wire that fires the shutter needs to be soldered to the bottom switch.Secure the switches using the M2.3 self-tapping screws. Slide the trigger into place while fitting the spring into the recess between the trigger and the body. Use your soldering iron to install the two M2.5 threaded inserts, but try to make less of a meal of it than I did, lol.Bend the wires out of the way of the travel of the trigger.Once you're done, screw the trigger cover down using the M2.5 screws.It should look like this when complete:<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/143769/rich_content/6addef84-f5a3-4081-9054-3a613cc504ea/dsc00779.jpeg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%223549e750-bc91-462c-b13e-362a0927b147%22%2C%22w%22%3A2880%2C%22h%22%3A1922%7D"></figure>Trigger area assembledMounting everything to the railAll of the parts are secured to the rail with 2x 1/4"-20 3/8" screws and matching T nuts.Insert the screws through the accessory to be mounted, then spin a T-nut onto the ends of the screws one or two turns, just enough to hold it in place. This should allow you to slide the accessory's T-nuts into the end of the rail until you have it where you want it, then tighten the screws up.For the trim plates, use the 3D-printed T nuts and the M3 screws to mount things instead.Once you've got everything in place, push the endcap onto the end of the rail.Mounting your cameraMount the extension tube to the camera and screw the camera to the camera mount platform, but only lightly so that it can still pivot. Slip the extension tube clamp over the tube and screw it into the lens mount platform, again only lightly.Now use a 1/4"-20 3/8" screw to tighten the clamp around the extension tube - your goal here is just to have the tube held firmly by the clamp, you arenot aiming to crush the tube or snap the clamp by reducing the 1mm gap at the base all the way to zero.Now tighten the tripod screws at the camera and lens clamp ends. Everything should be nicely aligned and the extension tube should not be bending. Now you can mount the lens to the end of the extension tube.Connect the shutter release cable adapter to the camera's release port, and then to the 3.5mm jack at the rear of the trigger grip.I'd strongly recommend keeping your camera mounted at all times while out in public so people have a chance of identifying what you're carrying. Maybe write "Nikon" or "X photography" on the side too!Category: Camera

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