Lulzbot TAZ power supply endcap scaled for 450w p/2 REMIXed

thingiverse

I modified the end cap for my Mean Well SE-450-24 power supply to fit my Taz 4. This mod uses parts from an old PC ATX power supply, including the press-in switch and 3-pin male AC socket. The 24VDC output hole utilizes a used Taz 4 DC power cable that was de-soldered from a stock power supply I no longer needed. This requires lengthening wires and cutting the wire between the switch and socket before reconnecting them after they're installed in the cover. I added forked terminals, crimped and soldered to attach to the p/s terminals. If you want to temporarily remove the pins from the end of the connector that plugs into the Taz electronics, you can install the cable from inside the p/s cover without using screws to retain it. I used the screws from the outside and had to drill two holes in the rubber flange. It wasn't pretty or easy, but it's strong. I would have preferred to modify the cap more because I felt it was a bit too wide and caused undue stress after installing the M4 screws to hold it on the p/s. I used PLA and was concerned that it might crack, but it didn't, and the added stress to the mounting flanges doesn't seem like an issue. If I were to re-design, I would remove a couple of mm from the width of the cover to make it fit closer to the power supply. I printed with PLA at 205C/70C fan after layer two. I had previously made two covers out of ABS that pulled off the bed or split in the lower layers, so I switched to PLA. I used no support and rotated to print with the connector and switch holes on the bed. There are two .stl files. One is 5mm thick (that's the one I used), and I also designed it as 3.5mm thick, but didn't try that version because I started with the 5mm version and didn't want to dismantle it. The 3.5 mm thick version should work fine if you want to try it. Again, I would rotate it to print with the connector socket and switch holes against the bed to avoid having to use supports. You'll need 4 M4 x 10 machine screws to mount it, 2 M3x 12 screws and nuts for the AC jack, and 2 M3 x 20mm screws and nuts if you mount the DC cable from the outside. If you mount the DC cable from inside by temporarily removing the DC pins, I would add a zip-tie to the stress relief on the outside as it leaves the hole. Use some washers against the plastic - so, 4 3mm washers and 4 4mm washers. Note: in the photo of the finished p/s, I only had two short cap screws, so the upper screw has a nut on it to prevent it from protruding too far into the p/s until I can get a couple more short M4 screws. I have a lot more faith in this power supply than the stock one, and supposedly the higher DC output rating is supposed to help. So far, so good. Just the power switch alone is a nice improvement. Update 10/13/2017: I added some feet so I could stand this power supply vertically to minimize the chance of something falling in the venting and fan holes. See photo above. Get it from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584676