Louvre Aulos

thingiverse

I've corrected the diameter of the holes (now they're oval as the original), and updated the joints. In the version 2, they're provided with a seat for cork or thread, ensuring better sealing and preventing leaks as much as possible! However, I decided to take inspiration from Classical era auloi (Pydna/Poseidonia) made out of deer bone sections joined with conical spigots. I use ordinary paper on the joints that are slightly loose. You can compare your print's measurements to those published by Stefan Hagel and fine-tune the instrument. The two pipes (High and Low) of the Louvre Aulos have been modeled and divided into 3 parts (Mouthpiece, Middle, and Bell). The lowest note should be between F and F# with a pitch around 182 Hz. Good rules are: The Low pipe's lowest note should give an octave without modification of air pressure or embouchure. The High pipe with all holes closed should give the unison with the Low pipe's lowest note AND opening the first from top hole, give a perfect fourth (High pipe: b natural, Low pipe: f#). Internal relations are normally in tune and can be corrected with bee's wax or sandpaper. I've removed the 3D printable plastic reed because experiments didn't provide reliable results. However, if interested, I'll send Solidworks or STL files of successive versions by private email. Instead, I provide two models of printable reed-former AND reed-cap (used to protect the reed when not played). If you're interested in modifying these files, I'll provide original Solidworks files by private email. Print formers and caps two by two vertically, using small ridges to tie them firmly with waxed thread. There's another file for a former for the reed tail's inverted cone that enters into the instrument. It provides a mold where the maker can place hot boiled cane and push step by step. The small obus form prevents cracking AND bending of the reed. A document on preparing reeds out of cane is in process. Enjoy, and thank you! Print Settings: Printer Brand: Velleman Printer: K8400 Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.1 to 0.2 mm Infill: 100% Notes: Paradoxically, I've found that printing parts vertically starting with the spigot AND using supports "only from the build plate" is the best way. Post-Printing: Some spigots may need sanding to fit properly and some require a thin strap of ordinary paper. Before tying formers and caps, smooth internal surfaces with sandpaper to avoid reeds hitting irregularities. Don't hesitate to re-drill holes or main bore to bring it closer to the original measurements.