Loki's Scepter

thingiverse

This is my take on Loki's Scepter (short MCU version). My significant others dad has a replica that I used to help model this in Fusion. My ultimate goal with this was 3d modeling practice and trying to model this in a way that would give as little post processing as possible. Ultimately, I needed a little sanding and a little bit of CA glue.For printing, the model has been designed for printing on a Bambu P1S, this means the sizes of the main parts are sized for a printer that is 256 x 256 x 256 mm. Please keep this in mind if attempting to build this version. However, I have uploaded a version that is whole (though does have internal screws). That way you can cut or slice it any way you would like.This model was also designed in a way to fit a small coin battery LED and switch to power a pico LED that runs to the mind stone piece (see below for further instructions). The coin battery LED I used and modeled around is this right here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1454254428/breathing-effect-leds-everything-you?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=cr32+led&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&sts=1&organic_search_click=1My build is three colors of PLA (black, silk gold, and grey), and one color of PETG. The mind stone is hollow and made from IC3D R-PETG Raspberry Blue filament. It looks awesome and lets the light come through nicely.Printing Tips:For best outside appearance, I printed the 3 handle portions vertically. I used tree supports for hollow overhangs and overhangs above the threads. My printer does NOT require supports on the threads themselves. For the pommel section, the top overhangs may require some support.For the blade connector piece, this should be printed vertically as well. This allows for minimal overhangs on the crucial threading portion at the top. The top section also has a small diameter hole for the LED wiring. It is imperative to avoid supports here as you will not be able to get the wiring through if this part is closed off. You will most likely need supports on the curved part of the blade.The blade sections I printed flat to avoid support scarring. Print slowly due to curved edge.The handle ornament sections are the most difficult. Printing them flat allows for the outside to look the cleanest, but requires a ton of support on the bottom. It may be possible to print these flat on the cut lines (basically a 45 degree angle) while supporting the underneath section (this would give the best silk PLA appearance, but is a difficult orientation). I printed them flat with supports underneath as I have mine dialed in that they come off easily.The other pieces are quite straight forward. Again though, no supports on the threads themselves.Build Tips and Tricks:First, start with the pommel and thread these together. Depending on your printer's tolerances, the threaded sections might not line up perfectly right after printing. I found that I was not getting enough rotation and did have to do a little sanding of the faces. Do not over-tighten as you risk snapping the threads. All threaded pieces are easy to line up visually.Next, screw in the blade connector. For the blade connector, it is crucial that this piece lines up perfectly, as the handle ornaments sit around this part with small tolerance groves. If it is not straight these pieces will not line up.Next you should wire in your pico LED through the blade connector. This is quite a difficult task. Basically, you want to take the pico LED head (part with the LED) and snake it up through the bottom hole of the blade connector piece (may be easier to do this before attaching permanently to the handle). I used tweezers to help it pull it from the back of the threaded area. This can be pulled all the way out until the larger connector piece cannot fit through the hole. From here I cut the wires so they were basically as short as possible. I have the on/off switch sit directly under the threaded portion of the blade connector and only a short distance of wire to the battery and battery holder. It is easier to cut the wiring ahead of time. At the end of this you should have a a coin battery in the holder attached to a short length of wiring which attaches to the switch which attaches to a short length of wiring attached to the LED that is passed through the blade connector hold all the way.Next use the blade connector pieces to connect the bottom blade to the main blade body and the the tip to the bottom blade. Depending on our printer you may need either sanding or CA glue here. Attach the top blade using its connector piece. The blade brace should be put on here as well. It is easiest to align the pin at the top inside the top blade hole, then attach the top blade to the main blade body while pushing down on the blade brace to fit it on the bottom portions of the blade. Make sure blade brace has enough clearance ahead of time.Next attach the handle ornaments, which are the most difficult part of this build. When putting them them together, you should do the back two first followed by the front two. Depending on tolerance, the pins may not be super tight, in which case you should glue the pins to one side and let that fully cure (after mocking the pieces together to ensure fit). Then add glue to the end of the pins or the opposite holes and press fit together. I find that lightly clamping the two sides together worked really well. I also added a little glue to the parts that touched the handle and the center line of the ornaments as well.For the front parts, these are more difficult because the bottom blade has a part that extends near the front of these two pieces. Essentially you lose all your ability to move forward and backward (originally I was going to put pins between the front and the back pieces, but this is not possible due to the blade section; you also cannot attach the blade section after). For the front, follow the same instructions for the back. I also put a little line of glue on the part that ends up touching the back handle ornaments to set everything in place. Finally, the coin battery section needs to be tucked under the blade connectors threaded area and inside the front part of the front handle ornaments. It is a tight fit, but should be okay.Once everything is set the final pieces are mostly straightforward. Attach the gold cone anchor using the built in pin. Snake the LED through the hole in the black screw and and tighten this to the main blade body. Snake the LED through the gold cone and tighten this to the black screw. Snake the LED through the mind stone and and screw this into the gone cone.