Locking ball and socket arm - Print and Assembly Optimized

thingiverse

All credit goes to alexrich82 for creating the original design, I've only made some minor adjustments to make it easier to print without supports and assemble using either a metric 10 or 20 wrench or included printable versions. I'll continue designing more end pieces to hold various useful items such as magnifying glasses etc on an ongoing basis as I create them. I'll also add other compatible components with "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms" http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:801279. I love that design, but the arms are very flimsy, these arms provide a nice upgrade to keep them in place instead of sagging over time. I'll adapt the end pieces of thing to use locking rings soon. Print Settings Printer Brand: Reprap Printer: i3 Custom Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm, 0.3 for ring Infill: 20% Notes: I recommend printing the "ball and socket" and ends with a 1-2mm brim, tensioner ring can be printed almost at maximum layer height for your printer, don't print the ball and socker or ends at finer layer height than 0.2mm, gets too smooth and doesn't hold in place well when locked. In Slic3r, the "Detect thin walls" setting needs to be off or the teeth for the tensioning system are removed. If your printer squishes the first layer to improve adhesion you might need to sand the bottom a bit, X/Y accuracy is important for the fit of this print, extrusion amount needs to be dialed in. Post-Printing Assemble the ball and socket pieces with a ring between each but without putting them where they tension the cup, makes it very difficult to insert the next ball (as shown in one of the pictures), can't put them on afterwards, it's like heatshrink when soldering, put it on but don't fix it in place.