little bolt hobber refined edition

thingiverse

I've discovered it challenging to produce bolts for standard Wade (and Collaborative Wade) because they demand hobs positioned near the end of the bolt. I have revised the tool to be more flat so it permits inserting 55mm bolts in an alternative manner and securing them with locknut-equipped M8 nuts. The changes: Requires a very flat M3 nut, which I've ground down to only 2 threads wide for the Dremel tool. You could also increase the indent of the extra spacing and use a standard Dremel tool holder. Be cautious not to apply excessive force, as a thick nut may damage the thread of the Dremel. I have utilized a 0.25mm jewelry grinding disk; however, it's not perfect – not even flat. The results are excellent nonetheless, as the bolt retains its hardened surface at the teeth (the black color). Although the disc is not rated for 12.9 hardened steel, it has not worn out excessively. The zinc-plated bolt was hobbed with a 0.5mm disk; photos for comparison are available. I believe this method is also effective. Edit: After producing several bolts, I have further refined the design by strengthening where it was bendy, making the split base even more flat, and adjusting the main nut holes size (any slack is not beneficial). Also, using a thinner gear does not make sense now; use a regular one instead. The tested bolts indicate that dimensions used are nearly on the edge of material strength. I've cut some hobs to be twice as wide while keeping them deep (approximately 1mm), thus reducing the metal 'stripe' pushing filament by half – they bent under load. Bolts have much better grip than those made using a tapping tool. It appears that grinding of filament is now more problematic than slippage; once a certain point is reached, approximately half of the filament can be ground away quickly. I think only solutions to this issue are to switch to a larger bolt diameter or simply use two bolts (take a look at Collaborative Wade or Brute Force Wade).